Odd Tinkering

Non notée

Année : 2017

Nombre de saisons : 1

Durée moyenne d'un épisode : 20 minutes

Genre(s) :

I make restoration videos. If you wish to send me anything, letters or packages, mail it to: PL 81117 Odd Tinkering Vetokuja 4 01610, Vantaa Finland oddtinkering@gmail.com The bellow email is for video related business inquires and such. I don't unfortunately offer repair services. You will also not get my permission to post my content on your facebook or other media page for free.

Saisons

Saison 1

Épisodes

Choisissez votre saison au dessus et découvrez les épisodes qui vous attendent !

Épisode 14 - Aluminum casting - 5000 subscriber trophy

7 octobre 2018

I have wanted to learn aluminium casting and passing 5000 subscribers seemed like a good occasion to do just that. Thank you all for subscribing. I figured lost-foam cast would be easiest way to start. These are my first tries on metal casting so there is still a lot to learn. I also made a quick foam cutter, I don't really have the space for a large cutter at the moment. I casted the trophy from scrap aluminum. The base I made from oak and put linseed oil on it. It took me three tries to get it "right". Of course there is still a lot to improve but I already learned a ton and I'm quite happy with the results. I think the first run went wrong mainly because of too low heat and too small sprues, which allowed the aluminum to cool down before it got inside the mold. On the second try I went over the top with the size of the sprues just to test whether I was right. The second run also failed. I saw some chucks of molten plastic in the sand after the cast and I realized that the foam was not right type of foam. I also did a test with the styrofoam and the blue foam. Styrofoam burned at least twice as fast as the blue foam and did not leave signifficant residues. I think I should have sieved the sand to get smoother surface texture. I'll see how that works out in my future projects. Also other tips are appreciated. I'm still working with relatively limited tolls and I will upgrade the furnace at some point. I hope this inspires some of you to try new things although you might not have the perfect tools nor the skills. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 15 - Tool restoration - Restoring old rusty tin snips from trash

23 octobre 2018

How I restored pair of old and rusty tin snips. I saved these old rusty tin snips/ aviation shears from trash for restoration. When I found the tool they were not moving at all because of the rust. When I got the rust off I found out they are Wiss M1 snips. I removed most of the rust with electrolysis. I had not tried this before and I probably could have achieved better results with more current or more time but the little rust that was left came off nicely with some wire brush and oil. A washer was added to fit the shears better back together. I tried plasti dip type of paint to make the handle nicer. This was merely a cosmetic fix but I feel like the surface of the paint gives a little nicer grip compared to the orginal faded plastic. The clip that was used to keep the shears closed was rusted and broken so I decided to make a new one from aluminum. My orginal plan was to bend the clip outwards to ease the opening but I bent the aluminum cold and it cracked so I decided to see if flat design worked well enough and i did so I didn't redo the clip. I might consider replacing it with one that has the bend at some point. The snips cut nicely and the aluminum clip is easy to use. Thank you for watching the video! Please let me know what you think on the comments and by liking. Don't forget to subscribe for more. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 17 - Restoring old Stanley No. 151 spokeshave - Tool restoration

16 novembre 2018

This time I will be restoring an old Stanley no. 151 spokeshave. The tool had some rust, the paint was coming off, it had some a lot of paint drops on it and the blade was extremely dull and a little uneven. I repainted the body, removed the rust and sharpened the blade. After disassembly I dumped the unpainted parts in vinegar until they the rust had come off. I thought I'd use wirebrush to remove rest of the oxidation but I quickly came to the conclusion wirewheel will get me better results. I used heat gun to strip the paint from the body. After burning the paint it came right off with a wirewheel. After this I painted the base coat with gray primer. I finished with coat was a black 2K automotive paint. The final surface is obviopusly npot perfectly smooth because of the cast iron surface the spokeshave has. I used a flat surface to flatten and sharpen the edge on it. I used the same setup to clean up the bottom of the spokeshave. It was in good condition so no actual flattening was needed. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 19 - Antique axe restoration with mirror finish - tool restoration

3 décembre 2018

I got this rusty antique axe head for $4. I this was a nice tool restoration project once again and I leaned a ton. This was my second axe restoration. Go check out the first one too! I started by polisihing the axe and sharpening so it shaves. I also restorerd the edge to better condition as the previous owner had sharpened it very badly. Rremoving the axe head turned out to be tricky as the eye of the axe was filled with something other than wood. I had to drill it full of holes but id didn't bread and it was still very tight. But luckily I managed to get it out after a while of hammering. The handle I made from local ash lumber which I sawed with my dad's giant DIY band saw. I dried the wood and shaped the handle. The smaller wedge I added last was actually a piece of wood that chipped when I was shaping the handle and I thought I'd put it back in right where it was. That turned out looking great. Thansk for whatching my project. Please let me know what you thought and subscribe for future videos! Remember also to turn on the notifications. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 20 - Turning old rusty hammer into Mjolnir TOOL RESTORATION

14 décembre 2018

I bought the rusty old hammer from a flea market. However it was unusable because the head handle was loose. I'm not sure how old it is or if it is antique. I decided to cast a new handle from aluminum and polish the head up. The hammer head had some rust and a lot of cement or plaster (I'm not sure of the correct word). I the makers mark as a bee or something similar, if you're interested. I wan'ted to make something more creative this time as I've not made such projects in a while so I though I'd make some sort of viking inspired design. My friend immediately called it Mjolnir. I think this one turned out super awsome! I started the clean up by sinking the hammer head into vinegar. Vinegar removes rust but I figured since it's acid it should dissolve bases, which e.g. calcium. That worked fantastically. Then I sanded the surfaces flat trying not to damage the makers mark. I continued to polish it even further with some buffing wheels until I got that satisfying mirror shine. I then shaped the handle from foam and covered put it in its place. I covered the mold with casting sand and made some air holes and a pouring funnel for the aluminum to make sure the pressure will be enough to force the aluminum all the way through. I had to do the casting during dark hours because that's all we get up north at this time of the year. It was also freezing temperature already but the video clip of the pour is probably one of the most calming clips I've ever filmed. This was only my second casting project so i was very satisfied with the results. The top of the mold still didn't make the perfect shape, not sure why. Maybe the burn foam blocked my air holes or something. But the result was still quite fine so I didn't see it necessary to re-do it. Minor dent were left to the other side of the handle because I didn't want to sand it down much. I continued to do the same polishing process with the handle. After The handle was polished I cut some buffalo hide to make wrapped handle. I used a string to pull the leather under itself to not have to use glue. The leather is quite thick which is necessary as the handle is metal and would be very rough on hands as is. The leather is pretty good at damping the vibrations, I've made my motorcycle handles is a similar way and they are quite good. Once again thanks for watching! Please let me know your thought in the comment and leave like/dislike. That helps me make better content in the future. I you would like to see some more, go ahead and subscribe and turn on the notifications. Music: Eternity - Whitesand SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 21 - Making a ring from 50 cent coin

20 décembre 2018

This week I wanted to try something different, making a ring from 50 cent coin.This is a really simple DIY project that could be done with quite minimal tools. But of course I used what's available to me as this is something I've never tried before. I begun be hammering the sides of the ring wider on an anvil. The metal alloy the coin is made, Nordic gold, is quite soft so all you need is a small hammer and sturdy surface to hammer on. While hammer I also started to bend the coin as I didn't want to make basic "wedding ring"looking ring. At some point I needed to straighten the ring a little because after it starts to bend the hammering will bend it even further and I didn't want to bend it too much. Once I was satisfied with the wideness of my edge, I drilled a hole. I didn't have any good tool to hold the coin while drilling so I pressed the edge into a piece on 2x4 and hoped it sticks enough to make the hole. It did. Then I took carbide bits on a dremel and used those to make the hole larger. Once it was large enough I used a round steel bar as a n anvil to "spread" the edge a little. Hammering spreads the metal making the diameter of the hole in the ring larger. After this I went back to the dremel and carved the hole to wanted size with carbide bit. Then I changed to diamond bit and later to fine stone bit. After I now had the anted shape I sanded both outer and inner surfaces to 800 grit and then polished them with metal polishing compound leaving me with perfect mirror finish. This was a super fun project that turned out great considering I didn't have any Idea what I was doing. I'll definitely be making some more rings in the future. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3

Épisode 22 - Making overly ergonomic handle for rusty file - OLD TOOL RESTORATION

28 décembre 2018

I found this old rusty file for around 3 euros. It as a fair price as the file part costs easily 20 euros. It was a little quite rusty, the file was a little dull and the handle was made of cardboard for some reason. Because the file handle the actual file is attached to, I does only allow one to use the file on one side there was no need to use straight handle which is no very comfortable . Because of this I designed a more ergonomic curved handle. On which I added a steel band with custom etched design to give it the extra style it needed. I also was orginally going to carve a checker design on the handle but as I found a piece of oak with the exact curve in the grain I wanted, that just felt like a little too much. The steel collar was etched with electrolysis. I first used 1mm thick tape to mask my design then painted over it with just a basic primer and removed the tape to allow have only the previously taped areas to etch. You can find a lot of tutorials regarding this on the internet so I won't be writing too brief instructions for for safety reasons. I used vinegar to remove rust from the other parts of the file and after removing the handle. I had them there overnight which felt like enough. besides rust removal the mild acid bath will also sharpen the file. This is a simple and cheap way to give your old dull files a new life. I used the freshly sharpened file to round the the part of the handle that fits the collar. I know there would have been easier ways but I wanted to do this to test out sharpened file. Plus how cool is it that I used the file to make a handle for itself An angle grinder and belt sander to sculpt the rough shape of the rest of the handle. A flap drum was used to finish the surface for an even finish. Then the collar was glued on with epoxy and the file was hammered in the hole of the handle. Thanks for watching! Subscribe for more (hopefully) weekly content and don't forget to press the bell icon for notifications! Please leave also feedback, I would appreciate it. Music: Tobaggan - Silent Partner SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 23 - Vintage Cord Drill Tool Restoration and Repair - Black and Decker

7 janvier 2019

I found this old Black and Decker D500 vintage cord drill online for restoration project. I haven't yet restored many power tools and I thought this is just a clean up job, but little did I know the tool was making a terrible sound which had to be repaired before using. The drill had only a little rust, but it was covered in dust from the inside and had a lot of wear on the outside. All the greas was either dry or done. The terrible noise was coming from the rotor rubbing against the part around it. This was caused by loose bearing. I couldn't find a new bearing but I fixed the problem by filling the bearing with copper paste. It was only a little loose, maybe some tenths of a millimeter but that was enough to make contact. This is most likely not a permanent fix but it worked well when I tested it for a while. I can always add some more copper paste if needed. If I find a new part I will change it of course. Besides fixing the problem with bearing I also replaced the part protecting the cord from bending and gave the drill a new paint. I used a reflective gold paint with clear coating because I wanted it to go better along with the aluminum body. These mirror paints never keep the mirror shine completely after clear coating but they are not durable at all without clear coat. I think the paint job turned out just perfect! The plastic handle was also in very rough shape so I decided to remove all major dents from the handle and polish it to nice shine. This was easily done in minutes by attaching it to a drill. Once again thanks for watching my video! If you like my work, subscribe for weekly videos. I welcome all feedback on my videos so don't hesitate to comment. Please share this video with your friends, that would mean a world to me 🙂 Music: Whitesand - Home SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #asmr #drill #tool restoration

Épisode 24 - Making mini Aquaman's trident - Tiny weapon

13 janvier 2019

This week I wanted to make Aquaman's weapon, the trident of neptune from the new Aquaman movie. Instead of the real deal I made a tiny weapon. I liked the movie and I this seemed like an interesting, yet feasible challenge. I would like to cast it in full size but that would need lots and lots of brass and currently I don't have room to store 2 meter tall trident. It's not my usual project but I learned a ton and I think it's important to constantly try and learn new things. I took a 2x20 mm flat bar of brass to get the right color. I had never carved anything like this so I was experimenting a little. My only previous take on carving with dremel is my second kiridashi, the one with the wavy pattern. I first made a pattern and printed out a pettern with some large reference images. I then cut out the pattern and glued it on the brass. I took a permanent marker and drew the edges on because I was sure the paper will come off at some point and the I would still have the black drawn edge left. I cut out the rough shape with dremel (and one of those bendy thingys) I used a heavy duty disk and a fiber glass disk. I also used regular angle grinder when there was enough room for accurate work. This was mainly because angle grinder was much faster. After shaping the two dimensional shape I took 4 sizes of barrel shaped Diamond-Chinesium burrs which worked great for this project. I used those burrs on the dremel to carve the 3D shape based on my reference images. After shaping the trident I took metal polish compound with a wool polishing burr and polished the tiny weapon to mirror shine. After this I shill wanted to add some of the arrow patterns the trident has in the movie. I used the top edge of one of the medium sized diamond burrs for the job. I thought it would be more practical to polish the trident before this so I would be able to see what I was carving, now the tiny scratches were easy to see. Remember, the whole trident is less than 2 cm wide although it seems gigantic due to my tiny hands. The "scratchy" look of my carving didn't of course fit well with the polished surface so I re-polished those areas making sure I didn't rub off my carvings. Now the surface looked much better. I even enchanted the trident with some of the powers the larger one also has. But because the trident is so small also the powers were very limited 😉 Thanks for watching my video (and reading all the way). If you liked my video. Please subscribe for more. I also appreciate all feedback so leave a comment bellow. And if you happen to know Jason Momoa, please share this to him! Oh and the first scene is a reference to one of Bobby Dukes videos, If you have not seen he's work you should check his channel out. He's extremely funny person and a talented artist. Music: MachinimaSound - The Land of The Wizard SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 25 - 50 cent rusty masonry hammer - OLD TOOL RESTORATION

21 janvier 2019

I went to see if a local fleamarket had some cool old tools for restoration projects, which it rarely does. I was surprised to find this beautiful old masonry hammer only for 50 cents. I've seen people ask a lot more for similar ones. The handle was not realy staying on well so I needed to fix that. The rust on this was was so thin I was sure is was not hiding any stamps so I went straight to very coarse belt and sanded the flat parts down. After This I used a dremel with coarse sanding drum to sand the other areas.The I moved to finer grit (around 150) first on the belt and then with the dremel and by hand. I've previously determined 150 grit is fine enough for good polish with the following method. After this I continued to use my 2 scouring pad disks on angle grinder for rough polishing. This was followed by Polishing wheel and metal polish compound. This resulted to a nice mirror finnish you can see ont hte video. The procees took e couple of hours in total. The handle was in fairly good shape so I decided to re-use it. it only needed a wedge and a clean up. I put the handle on a leather and sanded it down. with multiple grits from really rough to 1200 grit for a nice smooth look. The I sew the end of the handle off as it was in bad condition and I wanted to get rid of the nail or whatever was used as a wedge previously. I decided to go for cross sheped wedge pattern, which I've never tried before. I cut a cross to teh top of the handle and cut out some small wedges to fill it. However my wedges wede mafe on too soft wood which resulted in a litlte uneven pattern.as I had to put a lot of small wedges in there instead of 2. After polishing the end it turned out looking quite alright and my "fail" was only cosmetic so I was pretty happy with the result. Lastly I oiled the handle with linseed oil to protect the handle. Once again thanks for watching! Please let me know your thought in the comment and leave like/dislike. That helps me make better content in the future. I you would like to see some more, go ahead and subscribe and turn on the notifications. Music: Beyond - Whitesand SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 26 - Restoring rusty old straight razor - KNIFE RESTORATION

28 janvier 2019

I bought this old straight razor for a couple of dollars for restoration. I thought since the blade was not chipped it should be quite easily restored although it is very rusty. Also the rust was not layered so I was hoping it was only surface rust. It turned out there was some pitting which is bad because on a razor there is not much steel to grind down to get rid of the pits. Luckily I managed to get rid of them. After removing the pits I polished the knife up to 2000 grits and then continued with metal polish compounds. I replaced the dull plastic handle with custom ash handle of my own design. I made it out of a single piece of wood because I feel it looks butter that way. I cut a small piece of wood out of undried wood and dried it in a microwave with a couple of short runs until I was sure it was dry. This is important so that the handle keeps it's shape after the razor is finished. I then drilled the hole for the pin as it wouldn't be possible after the next step. I then cut a large enough wedge tot the wood to fit the blade on my razor to act as a sheath, like a regular handle. I shaped the handle to my liking and make a pin out of brass plated steel nail. I hammered the ends of the pin to make it sit in there tightly. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe, like, comment and share as that helps me to create more content in the future. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 27 - Rusty Japanese kitchen KNIFE RESTORATION with secret wood handle

5 février 2019

This time I'll restore this Japanese kitchen knife. I thought it would be a nice project for restoration although it was old and in rough condition. The blade is chipped and it is rusty. The handle is also badly damaged. I decided to replace the handle with secret wood handle that had kind of ice looking resin part. I started by removing the rust with sokin the blade in vinegar overnight. then I used a belt sander to get rid of all the chipped parts of the blade. I reshaped the edge with the sander and finshed with filing by hand. I then removed pitting with coat se sand paper and polished the place up to 200 grits by hand. An angle grinder would have heated the blade up too much. Polish was finshed with metal polishing compound. for the handle I used ash. I broke the black is 2 piece to get nice broke surface. I then drilled a hole for the tang of the knife. I used epoxy glue to attached the tang in the holes. After this I used cardboard to make a mold for casting. I made the mold quite large because it's much easier to remove material than to add some. I wrapped the mold in aluminum foil and tape to prevent leaking. After a failed attempt I mixed some clear casting resin with slight blue hue to make it look almost like ice. Resin was poured in the mold and I let it dry. I sanded the black to wanted oval shape similar to the orginal handle. I had couple of bubbles in the resin as this was only my first attempt at resin casting. I filled the bubbles with resin and brushed the whole handle with resin to seal it up and give it a nice glossy look and deeper color. The project turned out great and it's super sharp. Resin casting also turned out great although there are minor flaws in it. Thanks for watching. Please, if you like my content , share it with your friend as that will enable me to continue making these projects. Music by Whitesand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUGV5nqNEws https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZKMVVHdiE SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 28 - Restoring rusty dented USSR firefighter's helmet - VINTAGE RESTORATION

16 février 2019

I bought this old rusty soviet/USSR firefighter’s helmet for $15. So it’s perfect item for restoration. The helmet had some dents the leather liners was dried up and the metal parts were rusty one of the rivets attaching it to the helmet was also gone, so it was nice practice for all sorts of skill needed in restoring antique and old items. I also noticed it wasn’t very well made the weldings keeping the thin on top attached were poor and it was far from symmetrical. I’m not sure if that is usual for helmets of this age. I started by removing the liner and sanding all the rust off. That took me a long while… Some areas of it had chrome on it and some didn’t and it had some bad pitting so just polishing wouldn’t have been possible or I would have had to take too much off from the thin metal. I hammered the dents as well as I could but the top piece was welded on so I would have needed a pulling device frot that. I tried all sorts of other tricks to make it pop up. I got access to welder so I tried to weld it (for the first time since junior high. That turned out ok but not something I wanted to show before griding it to final shape. I used some chemical metal to fill the worst pitting and to make the area around the welding seamless. I then painted the helmet with chrome and the emblem on the front with gold paint, although it was originally army green (maybe this was some sort of military firefireghter’s helmet?). First coat is filling primer, second is black which makes the mirror paints better and third coat is a mirror chrome. On the emblem I left out the filling primer as that would have removed a lot of detail from the emblem. I had to attach the liner between painting the inside and outside with chrome because I wanted to get the paint on the rivets for most uniform look. I used a lanolin wool care product to restore the leather on the liner. This was also necessary to remove the leather without breaking it since it was so badly dried. I remade the leather straps which were both badly damaged and I measured them to correct length for my use. Because I’m going to use this all the time… I also made the rivets myself from aluminum because no store near me had that sort of rivers and I would have needed to order them which would have set my schedule back and left me with 97 extra rivets in the already too small shed. Over all the project was very successful. There are minor dents still to be seen on the helmet because I didn’t cover it completely with bondo and hammering the dents only takes you so far because the metal gets stretched. Thanks again for watching. Please like, comment, share and subscribe as that helps me make more content. All feedback is also appreciated. I read ALL comments although I don’t have the time to answer all of you. Occasionally I answer even comments in my old videos so it’s always worth a try if you have a question to me. Music: 1. Regret - Whitesand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EENJVLv4mtg 2. Soviet anthem with "old radio effect" I made SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 29 - Restoring dented vintage lighter - Restoration project

24 février 2019

I bought lot of old lighters from auction for restoration. The lighters are missing parts, have dents and some rust and oxidation. I'm sure I'll be able to restore at least some of them. The lot had 4 of this type of lighters and a couple really old ones. The lighter has 3 parts. The lighter itself, a tank for extra lighter fluid and a cap. I think it's called Tommy style lighter after brand of Tommy lighters. I have no idea what the brand on it is. I made some of my own tools from nails to push up all the dents. After getting the shell of the lighter back to orginal shape I sanded it flat because there is only so much you can do to dents on metal. The dents often stretch the metal so that I can't be only hammered back to the orginal shape. I However I got it close enough to just sand off the tiny unevenness. This was important because mirror finish will reveal the slightest bumps. After sanding I polished it by wet sanding and polishing compound. This resulted to perfect mirror polish. The lighter was missing the spring and screw that hold the flint in place so I loaned one spare parts from the other lighters I bought. I have already ordered some spare parts but they take weeks to ship so I figured this is the best solution. I also also changed the old wick to a Zippo wick which was the same size and the only option locally available. I also put is a Zippo flint but then I realized the old flint had been oxidized and jammed in the pipe for the flint. I used a small screwdriver to destroy the remaining of the flint. After this the lighter worked perfectly. I added a blooper at the end of the video. I was not careful with the lighter fluid and there was some on the outside of the lighter and mu hands which resulted me setting my hands on fire 😀 This is not very dangerous as the flame is not very hot but obviously it's never safe to be setting this on fire by accident. I hope you learned from my mistake or at least had a good laugh, I know I did. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 30 - Restoring old Italian coffee grinder - Restoration project

4 mars 2019

For this week’s restoration I found a rusty vintage or maybe even antique coffee grinder. I believe the manufacturer is Fabrica Nazionale and it was made in Italy. I also found similar one for sale on ebay for $50. Mine is little more rusty but the other one was missing a part. I only paid 10 € for this. As most of my restoration projects, I bought through an online marketplace. Hopefully next summer, when there are more flea markets than during winter, I find items with more interesting stories behind them. This time I decided to do some experimentation with both my video editing and the processes I used. As usual, after disassembling, I removed the rust with vinegar. I didn’t put the handle in the vinegar as it had wood and vinegar would have turned the wood dark and water wouldn’t have been very good for it anyways. There were also some red and black paint on the parts but the vinegar softened the paint enough to get it off rather easily. Despite this it took me several hours to clean up the parts. There was also some black stuff inside the grinder. I think it is some sort of oil from the coffee beans. After experimentation I found that acetone dissolved it so I had to go through the insides by scrubbing them with acetone. Now what the grinder was clean I thought it will rust from the inside if the metal is not protected. Paint is most certainly not good idea as it is a health hazard, so I thought of gun blue. After some research I decided that I would have to consume A LOT of the coating during short period of time to get a poisoning, even if the coating was very thick. Most likely issue would be copper poisoning, in case you are curious. Some of the coating will be eroded to the coffee but we are talking about extremely small amounts that are not a health hazard. Body will naturally get rid of all the substances in the bluing solution. However, it is important to clean the parts with a lot of water. In the video you only see me neutralizing the solution with wet rag to stop the reaction. After this I also washed the whole grinder, as I mention int the video. The solution itself is much more toxic that the coating because the coating is so thin. This is just my personal opinion and you shouldn’t base your own decisions only on my opinions. I am not a toxicologist but I do have enough expertise and understanding to evaluate the risk for my personal use. Anyways, On the handle I decided to go with red, it had originally been gray but 1. I wanted to try out 2K spray paint and I couldn’t find any in gray locally. 2. Red looks great with the blued steel but it is still very traditional color. I also removed the old wax and dirt from the wooden part of the handle. I tried what colored wax would have looked like but I was not confident it would look good so I decide to try the colorless wax and it looked great. I had not expected it to change the color so much. I tried colorless first as I could have applied the colored on top of it if I wasn’t happy with the colorless wax. I put a coat of oil on the metal surfaces to protect them further from rust. This grinder will now last forever. I can also wash it as it has the coating on the inside too. Without coating it wouldn’t be possible as the inside would rust immediately. After disassembly I tried it out and it worked very well. I will throw away the first few batches just as a caution if there are any unwanted residues that would adhere to the ground coffee. Music by Whitesand: Emotional piano music - Awakening --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3

Épisode 31 - Restoring broken vintage flashlight/lantern - Restoration project

15 mars 2019

This weeks restoration project, vintage Wonder flashlight/lantern, cost me only 0.7€. It is very patinated and had a bit of rust and as you will find out later on the video there was other issues too..The restoration started as usual by disassembly. The flashlight was very pleasing to diassemble, so many little parts but still so simple. Kind of like legos. After the disassembly I removed the old damaged paint. The light was repainted with base coat and blue spray paint (RAL 5105). Then I remade the French text which I believe is telling me what type of battery to use. I used regular 4.5V battery I don't know if the text is telling me otherwise. The text was remade on Photoshop. I used most similar font I could find. It only had slight differences. This was printed horizontally mirrored on back paper of sticker printing paper. I used clear glue to attach the printer color from the paper to the lantern. Then the flashlight was clear coated with 2K spray lacquer. I polished all the metal parts and removed any rust/oxidation to get good contact between the brass parts. The other parts needed only a cleanup. After assembly I noticed the lamp didn't work. I didn't try it first because I didn't have the battery. I quickly noticed it was missing a piece of some kind. There was only one contact to the bulb. i made new part from brass sheet. my sheet was slightly thicker than the original one. After some experimenting with the right shape I manged to get the lamp working beautifully. Thanks once again for watching. Please leave me some feedback and if you like what I do, consider subscribing and don't forget to hit the bell icon to get notifications as my upload schedule is still not very consistent. I do my best to get a video out every week. The BATTERY I used: https://amzn.to/2HGgjjN SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #asmr #vintage restoration #antique restoration #lantern restoration #no talking

Épisode 32 - Restoring rusty vintage pocket knife - Knife restoration

25 mars 2019

As this weeks project, I will completely restore this rusted and damaged vintage pocket knife. The large blade has small crack and the tip is badly bent. The guy who sold this to me told it had been sitting in a box which was packed away in 60's which means this knife is at least 50 years old but probably older because is clearly wasn't new when it was put in the box. I think it's Solnigen pocket knife, because of the shield symbol and text on the blade., Usually they say "Solnigen garantie" I decided to go for a a complete restoration instead of just fixing the blade and the repainting it. I disassembled the blade using a bu drilling the old pins out. being careful not to damage the parts. I removed the rust in a vinegar bath. Then I removed the old paint with paint stripper. I nickel plated the scales to prevent then from re-rusting. I think they had nickel plating originally because the rust was only on certain spots and It definitely wasn't chrome plating. Then I re-painted the handle to a very similar style it originally was. It had this strange wine red wood imitation paint job. Luckily the airbrushing on that wasn't much better than what I can do. Instead of wine red, I used dark red lacquer which gives a bit classier look than just a regular paint but I don't think I wondered too far off from the original. The paint job turned out just stunning. While parts were nickel plating, for almost the whole day, I sanded and cleaned up or polished the other parts. No need to polish the plates that can't be seen, it only removes material from them, so clean up was enough. I plated the parts for the whole day for two reasons, I used very low voltage to make sure I got the best result possible and I also still wanted to quick polish after that so I needed thick enough layer of nickel. I used steel nails as new pins for the knife. I couldn't find something softer locally and I wanted to finish the video so I spent one evening just hammering the pins.I hope it will now last another 50 years until the next guy gets to restore it. Thanks for watching my video once again. Please consider subscribing. I've also added some of the gear I use in links bellow. If you buy anything from amazon, please go through one of these links and Amazon will give me up to 10% of whatever you spend. It doesn't cost you anything extra. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 The list of tools is short because they are hard to find from Amazon. Either they are too old ( my dremel is almost my age!!) or they are cheapo local or Chinese brands. --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #restoring #ASMR #knife restoration

Épisode 33 - Antique rusty lighter - Restoration project

31 mars 2019

Today I'll be restoring this rusty antique lighter. It has been damaged badly by the rust and is in urgent need of restoration. The whole top side had rusted and the stone didn't even move when I begun. Luckily the lighter is made of thick plate and the rust had not gone trough. The cap didn't have much extra material left though. After removing the rust I found stamp saying FZ 522 and the bottom of the lighter says 522 too. I tested a "real" rust remover this time. It's much less smelly than vinegar and works well. I think all the methods have their pros and cons but I'll definitely be using this in the future too. After the rust was removed and the jammed stone was released I put the parts in lathe just because I have access to one and the pits were very deep. This I sanded the part up to 2000 grits and then used a dremel with wool polishing bit and polishing compound for mirror finish. As you can see in the end it ended up looking stunning. I might make an update on this after I toy with nickel plating some more. My current system is not great for brass (or in general) and the two metal parts could cause some problems too. Learning these things always take some time. I also filed the "grip lines" back to the cap. Some of them had worn/corroded off and some came off while I sanded it. When sanding the I left the stamp completely alone, I only removed the rust from top of it. But I polished everything around it so it looks nice and reminds of the history. I cut new gasket from rubber and cut a new spring from another really really long spring. I put in a new flint after a little adjusting with the spring it worked beautifully. I you liked my video hit the like button and subscribe. Maybe even share my video, that helps me a ton! If you didn't like the video, feel free to hit the dislike button, twice. Thanks for watching come back next week. SOME OF MY TOOLS: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 34 - Restoring the original gameboy - Retroration project

7 avril 2019

In this week’s project I will restore the original Nintendo Gameboy. As a 90’s kid I thought it would be cool to restore a Gameboy. Or should I say retrore. I bought this one from Japan. It’s obviously dirty but it’s also very yellow no rust this time. With this rust would be very bad. However the screen is broken and it is missing a lot of vertical lines. Otherwise it seems to be fine. I had some issues with turning it on when I tested it but after I got it on, I’ve had no trouble. The batteries I used were probably dead. It’s also missing the screen cover/lens. I bought a new one https://amzn.to/2I61BTx I started the restoration by opening the Gameboy. I needed Y1 screwdriver ( for example https://amzn.to/2D1SUWg) (my kit was bought locally and could't find that online). This was terrifying because I have almost no experience in this type of work, but one of the main reasons for this channel is for me to learn new stuff so that was intentional. I learned online this neat trick to fix the vertical missing lines. I’ve heard it doesn’t work or you can’t do it if you have horizontal empty lines. I used soldering iron to rub the area under the screen where the connections are. I used temperature of 300 Celsius. This is not a tutorial but a piece of entertainment and something to give you inspiration what to find out before starting project like this. In case you still want to use this as tutorial and risk ruining your Gameboy, keep the soldering iron constantly moving and don’t heat up one area for too long. There are grat tutorials about this on youtube. I probably didn’t have to take the ribbon cable off. I was just following a tutorial and realized it afterwards because I didn’t watch the whole tutorial before starting… Next I disassembled the rest of the device and sunk the plastic shell (everything removed) into 12% hydrogen peroxide. And heated the solution in zip lock bag to 45-50. Water bath helped me to keep the temperature stable. Every once in a while I opened the bag to let the built up oxygen out to keep it from building pressure. Higher temperature or higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide will make the reaction faster but higher temperature will ruin your parts. I found that If you go much over 50 degrees celcius, your plastic will loose it’s original color. This method only removes the yellowing and the part won go all white. More temperature can also melt the plastic. There is also something called retrobright. It’s a paste or gel or whatever which combined to UV-light will have this same effect. Retrobright however has been reported to sometimes give uneven/patchy results and I didn’t want that since my parts were already very patchy. This worked beautifully, it got back the light gray color it used to have. While putting it all back together I tested the screen once more to make sure it worked. The last line I had a lot of trouble with, had come back. This time it only took me like 5 minutes to get rid of it. Now the screen has been working nicely. After I had put it back together I still had to attach a new screen protector/lens to the shell. Together the whole project probably took 15-20 hours of active work, I had never done this type of ork and filming sometimes makes the process a lot slower. The editing is probably another 15 hours of more. I you liked my video hit the like button and subscribe. Maybe even share my video, that helps me a ton! If you didn't like the video, feel free to hit the dislike button, twice. Thanks for watching come back next week. SOME OF MY TOOLS: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2HTVQXZ BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 35 - Restoration of rusty old straight razor. This time better

17 avril 2019

In this video I'll be restoring an old rusty straight razor. In my last razor video the handle probably isn't as good as I can do but I'ts still my second watched video at the moment so I felt like I had to make another one with handle that sticks with the original design. (psst. the intro is a satire...) I started by disassembly and rust removal. I used MC-51 rust remover overnight. After that the blade was easy to clean. This was followed by hours of sanding to remove some of the pitting from the blade. I think, when doing something like this you should try to find the balance of not removing too much material, as the blade is already very thin and still removing at least some of the pitting. After the sanding I evened edge on a diamond sharpening "stone" (actually thin plate https://amzn.to/2Xkfh0F). Then I polished the blade with metal polish compond and dremel with wool felt bits (https://amzn.to/2GpOpqk & https://amzn.to/2XhO1zO) and stropped in on 12 000 grit Micro-mesh pad someone recommended for me in the comments (https://amzn.to/2ICDr2i). Later I'll use a leather strop when needed. Abrasive stropping is not necessary in when using a razor but think it makes a good finish in this case. I drew the design of the original handle on piece of walnut and cut it to shape on bandsaw. Then a shaped it a bit more on a belt sander and drilled holes for my pins. Only after this I split the handle in two halves to keep them as identical as possible. then I shaped the inside of the scales. the handle needed to fit between the scales. I also made a wedge for the other end of the handle. I made a test vacuum chamber from glass jar and hoped it will hold up for the test and not crack. I merely added a tube to the lid and sealed it with silicone. I used cheap but powerfull vacuum pump I found on ebay. First time I tried it but it seemed to be well worth the money. Typically the ones that are not only the motor could cost easily over $100. You just need to figure out the electrics yourself. I used just a test set up with the electronics and I will do proper connections now that I have tested it works well. The vacuum chamber was filled with Borma Wachs Holzhärter (https://amzn.to/2DeY9So) Which is a wood hardener typically applied to rotten wood surfaces etc. But I figured it should work similarly to cactus juice. Cactus juice would have been insanely expensive to ship (maybe $50 or more for just shipping) and I couldn't find anything similar locally. I submerged the parts in wood hardener and slowly pulled a vacuum in the chamer and waited for the bubbling to stop (wood had no air left). Then I let the air back in and the wood is left with vacuum which will then start pulling the wood hardener in. this could take an hour or so. You can see it worked because the wedge I used did not float after the process. The product I use will dry in room temperature unlike Cactus juice. But since the pieces were filled with it I wanted to speed up the drying by placing them on a radiator. After parts had dried I assembled the handle using brass pin set I found from from ebay. I also put washers between blade and scales to allow better movement for the blade. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe, like, comment and share as that helps me to create more content in the future. SOME OF MY TOOLS: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 36 - Strange old multicolor pen restoration - Restoring project

28 avril 2019

I bought a lot of 4 old items a while back the lot had this multicolor refill pen, the razor (brand is razo) and two completely worthless rusty items. I knew this pen would make a good video and also the razor might make a video. After searching Ebay I saw one of those razors being sold for 100 USD and I think the pen could be worth at least 60-70 USD and I paid around 16.5 USD euro for the lot so it was a good deal if I want to sell those. I'm actually not sure if this should be called pen or pencil in English but pen is shorte, so... The pen is probably made of nickel silver (aka german silver or alpacca) and it could be silver plated but that I don’t know for sure. The metals are the same color. The pen has 4 tips that take 1.18mm refills but they can to be only around an inch long. It’s supposed to be used for multiple colors (black, blue, red and green in this case). The mechanism inside is quite fascinating, but it’s still relatively simple. The outer shell of the pen locks the tip into outside-position and a spring pulls it back when it’s released. After some searching, I found that both nickel silver and real silver can be cleaned from oxidation bu putting them is a solution of warm water, baking soda and salt with some aluminum foil. All the tutorials showed this worked in minutes but to me it took at least 2 hours and still it took some rubbing with toothbrush to get the oxidation off. I didn’t try any chemical methods on the mechanism because it had multiple metals which could lead e.g. to corrosion of the springs. I used WD-40 type multispray and eventually also brass brush to remove all the dirt and oxidation. After cleaning I polished the parts with metal polish compound and a Dremel with wool wheel and cleaned them with acetone to get all the wax from the polish compound off. I wanted to also do something to the pen case I got with the lot. It was in decent condition, so I only re-oiled it with lanolin, which (in this case) was from a wool care product. This will make the leather softer and last a lot longer. If the leather dries up it will start cracking. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe, like, comment and share as that helps me to create more content in the future. This video was probably more goofy than the typical ASMR but I'll try to more both in the future as you seem to like both jokes and the ASMR aspect. SOME OF MY TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 37 - Restoring antique rusty scale - Restoration project

6 mai 2019

This week I'll restore an antique letter scale. It is rusty, paint is coming off and the brass is badly oxidated. One of the legs has broken off at some point and someone welded it back on destroying the decorations on the body. I'll try to remake those as well. More detailed explanation bellow: SOME OF MY TOOLS: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV CARBIDE DREMEL BIT: https://amzn.to/2PNPUSk DREMEL FLEX SHAFT: https://amzn.to/2DQnAda TINY DIAMOND BIT FOR DREMEL: https://amzn.to/2PQIC0o POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- I started by using a dremel with flex shaft and carbide bit. I used whatever was handy to punch out the rivets but now I have punch a real set for future projects. It was really important to make sure as little pressure is applied on the enamel as possible. The enamel was in ok condition and breaking it would have ruined the project. I used holes on the table and drilled some holes to a block of wood to allow me to punch the rivets out without harming the enamel. After dissassembly I used MC-51 rust remover on the body. This time I had it in a cold shed for a day (warm rust remover would be much faster). The russt came off beautifully. Then I used paint stripper and wrapped the body in plastic. This makes the paint stripper even more effective. After couple of hours all the paint came off in with just Chuck Norris' toothbrush. For the brass parts I used a solution of salt and vinegar. This only took maybe 30 minutes to work. For painting I used gray primer fro the base coat and then 2K Black spray paint. The manufacturer is Car Rep. It seems to be rether senstitive to temperature. The can needs to be warm for good results. I then used jewelers viseI bought to make hammer new rivets from 2.5mm brass wire. When attaching the rivets I needed to start with a few hard blows. This will lock the rivet in (the whole rivet will become thicker). After this I used only the minimum force to widen the other side on the rivet. I had to be very careful to not have the enamel touch the anvil as I hammered. It would have sucked to ruin the project at this point. I was very careful that the whole weight of the piece was on the rivet I was hammering on. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe, like, comment and share as that helps me to create more content in the future. All feedback is welcomed as that is the easiest way for me to improve my work and videos. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments I try to answers some of them. Also consider supporting me on Pateron You will always be able to get in contact to me trough there.

Épisode 40 - Old rusty squeeze lighter restoration. Got FOOLED on ebay

20 mai 2019

I bought this rusty vintage Imco safety lighter on ebay. It was sold with the heavy wear and mention that flint needs changing but NO pictures or mention of the destroyed of the screw, which made it impossible for an average person to change it. I'm sure they knew what they were selling to me but I can't really complain since it made the project much more interesting. Also check out my new Instagram, I'll start posting there soon https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ I first tried to unscrew the stuck screw but it was stuck too hard and because it was made of aluminium, the screw just broke. I decided to drill a hole trough. A this point I still tried to hammer is a torx head and unscrew it for one last time but this was useless. I used the torx bit and some other screw driver bit to literally just dog out all the aluminum. It was a slow process. I spent one night just removing the screw. Eventually I got everything out. When using this drilling method it is important to be able to drill in the very middle of the screw to not damage the thread Besides the usual disassembly, rust removal, and polishing, I changed the aluminium rivets and screw to brass ones. I've seen this made with brass parts too.This could be maybe WWII era version when they probably did changes to the materials. All the ones with brass rivets I found had brass screw on the bottom too. The original lighter was most likely nickel plated so I did that too. I tested it by wetting the parts and no rust appeared. I didn't want to make the video any longer so I am not explaining the electroplating process in detail. You can find some great tutorials here on YouTube if you are interested. I used a Zippo screw and spring because it was a perfect fit and these lighter were sold with brass screws too. Finding/making a new aluminium screw for it would have been a mistake because then someone else would have to drill it open again in the future. Thanks for watching. Leave any comments bellow and use the like and dislike buttons as you please. And remember, sharing is caring it really helps a lot with spreading the video and supporting my channel. Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME OF MY TOOLS: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 41 - Restoring old toy car with broken window - Restoration project

2 juin 2019

In this episode I'll restore this vintage Corgi Junior Whizzwheels Mercedes-Benz 280 SL toy car. I really wanted to see if I could make a new windshield. That turned out to be quite tricky. I tried also to cast it from epoxy but then I found that easiest way was to from a piece of plexiglass. I know there are vacuum forming tables etc. but I don't think it would have not been sensible to make or buy one for only this project. I'll make on if there is more need for it but I don't want to have one taking up space just in case I need one. More info can be found after the links. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME OF MY TOOLS: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- For the disassembly I used the tiny drill press to drill out the rivets on the bottom. Then I drill holes in to the posts and added a thread for M2 screws to be able to put it all back together. This project had no rust so there is no rust remover this time but I continued with paint stripper. It really need from 15 minutes to maybe 2 hours to work but I left the parts wrapped overnight because that fit my schedule the best. After the night the paint came off really easily. Only few spots had the paint still a little attached. The windshield had a crack all the way trough and since I couldn't fin a way to fix that perfectly I wanted to make a new one. I didn't find any reproduction spares either and buying another on these cars just for new windshield would defeat the purpose of restoration because then that car would be missing the windshield. After several hours of experimenting in epoxy casting and reforming plastics. I went with the latter. I used plexiglass and made a wooden mold to press it against. After testing I found my mold was tiny bit too small so I filled it in with some tape. to get perfect results I would have needed to have the mold polished or something. But what ever unevenness was left by the mold I removed with automotive polishing compound and treated the windows with an automotive resin finishing compound. It turned out much better than I hoped for. I used an airbrush for painting because the parts are very small and the small nozzle on the airbrush will help me to get only a very thin coat of paint. this way all the details on the surface wont be hidden under thick paint like it would with spray paint. I used a base coat and mixed a yellow color as close to the original as possible. I used water based colors because I coated everything with clear coat which will protect the paint. I also gave a quick polish for the wheels with the polishing compound I used for windscreen.Then I just assembled the parts and it looks almost like out of the box. Thanks for watching and reading all he way through. Leave any comments bellow and use the like and dislike buttons as you please. And remember, sharing is caring it really helps a lot with spreading the video and supporting my channel.

Épisode 42 - Restoring original SNES that had YOGURT inside - Retroration project

9 juin 2019

This time I restored the original SNES. This is the PAL version and it is quite badly yellowed and dirty both inside and outside. Inside also had some stains of something which I seemed to be yogurt or other dairy product. It had been poured in from the game slot and it caused some trouble with reading the games. Luckily most of the yogurt had missed the pins. These retro consoles are lot of fun to restore. Thanks for watching. More info can be found after the links. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO NINTENDO SECURITY BIT: https://amzn.to/2I3zzqy HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- The console was powering on but the games wouldn't work properly. sometimes there was no picture and only bad audio and sometimes the audio itself was fine but there was no picture. Only a couple of times I got it somewhat working but the picture and colors were still a little off. I thought it had to be due to some sort of dirt or corrosion on the pins of the game slot. After opening it up I found loads of dust and dirt inside and the funniest part, some yogurt that had fallen down the game slot. I used some isopropanol (isopropylic alcohol) to remove all the dirt and corrosion I found. Isopropanol is what is typically used for this because it doesn't contain almost any water and therefore it will not cause corrosion. The main halves of the shell were also were yellowed. Something that is were common for the SNES due to teh type of plastic was used and the console heating up. I uesd hydrogen peroxide to de-yellow the parts. I thickened the hydrogen peroxide with gelatine so it wouldn't run off the shell immediately after it is applied. After that I wrapped the parts in cling wrap to prevent teh solution from evaporating. I also made a "solarium" from box, UV-led strip and aluminum. The aluminum is there to spread the light more evenly and to make it bounce around until it hits the shell. Nobody really known for sure what the chemical reaction behind this method called retrobrighting (or retr0brigting) is but tehre are some guesses about it online. UV-light and temperature seems to act as catalyst and speed up the process. The parts were almost done after less than a day but I had them in there for like 30 hours to be safe. After that I washed the parts and put the thing back together and works like a charm. Thanks for reading all the way through.

Épisode 43 - Restoring old broken pocket knife - New handle from bottle caps

17 juin 2019

I bought a lot of pocket knives for few euros. One of them was this rusty vintage knife. It was made in Solingen, Germany. I don't know anything else about it. It looks like it was made maybe in 50's and the handle could be made of ebonite. I wanted to try to do a recycled plastic handle because I thought it would look pretty similar to the original one although a wooden handle may have looked better. Also recycling is always a good thing these days. And I guess since I'm an "influencer", I should do something good with that every once in a while say maybe one or two of you get interested in recycling stuff because of this. Thanks for watching. More info can be found after the links. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME OF MY TOOLS: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- I started by disassembling the knife. While doing this I noticed a previous owner had replaced one of the pins with thicker copper pin. And drilled also larger holes for the tools.Using one larger pin would have looked ugly so I decided to weld the holes shut and drill new holes. Before welding I had to remove the rust. Also from inside the hole.That is important. I used MC-51 rust remover because that's what I happen to have. i'm not sure if there is huge difference to vinegar other than more pleasant smell. I might have to make a test video of different rust removers... After I had welded the holes shut I was sure the original heat treating of the blade was gone so I had to do that again. In hindsight I probably could have done the quenching in oil. but seemed to work and the did not crack so it's all good. After hardening I tempered the blades in an oven. This makes the blades less brittle so they wont break. The old brass sheets between the tools had also the large hole. So I needed to replace those too. I used a scroll saw to cut new ones out from sheep of brass. Then I stacked them in a pile and used double sided tape to hold them together while I used one of the old sheets as a jig to drill the holes for the pins. For the handle as mentioned I used plastic bottle caps. i had sanded off the brand on the top because I didn't want to have any other colors in the plastic and also because that would probably prevent the caps from melting together. Ideally I would have an extrusion machine to make the plastic bar but I don't so I just made a mold from wood and used baking sheet to prevent the plastic from sticking to the wood. Without it you only have a sticky mess. I tried to press all the air out but I also had to do some fixing afterwards. It wound have been better to have a metal mold where I can heat up larger quantity on the plastic and the use vice to something to force all the air out. But next time I'll know better. This time I was really just counting that I can find a spot with no bubbles from inside that bar, and I did. The bottle capsare made from HDPE plastic. It needed maybe 270 degrees celcius to start melting but the pieces stuck better together with a little more heat. Eventually I ended up using something like 350 degrees. After making the bar I just cut and sanded it to shape and drilled the holes using the brass sheets I had made. As final step I tried if my metal polish compound would work on this too. It did a decent job, the best I could find when testing different methods, but you can't press the part against the wheel hard at all or it will start melting. So, patience young padawan. Thanks for reading all the way trough. If you have questions, leave a comment. I might answer or not, I get a lot of comments and questions so I can't answer all but I try to read it all and answer a few every day.

Épisode 44 - 1930's lift arm lighter RESTORATION - another Ebay find

23 juin 2019

I this episode I’ll restore this old lift arm lighter from 1930. I think the manufacturer is called Polo. It has a bad spark, minor dents that need to be fixed and the plating is mostly gone. No extreme defects this time. I think the seller also accidentally sent me extra an lighter. I too has some minor dents and the plating is almost completely gone. The brass on both lighters is also patinated. More info can be found after the links --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME OF MY TOOLS: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- The disassembly of this one was simple the wheel was attached with a tiny screw and the arm was held together by a spring and it was disassembled by only pressing the arm down and bulling it backwards, so it popped out of the slot. The spring was not attached in any way but it was just pinned between the arm and the body of the lighter. I put all the parts in MC-51 rust remover which will also remove patina from the brass. This was followed by sanding out all the scratches and tiny dents. While sanding I also made a dent removal tool from a nail. This helped me to push some of the deeper dents back up. Whatever shallow pits were left from those, I sanded down. The wall was very thick, so this was no problem. After sanding, everything was polished. The shinier surface you have when you start plating, the better results you get. Also you can’t polish the plating too much because it’s thin. Some polishing can be done if you plate thick enough layer, like I did. For nickel plating I used a nickel electroplating solution I’ve made myself. It’s essentially a nickel sulphate solution. I might do a tutorial on this at some point. This is still a very slow system but I want to figure it out myself rather than use a commercial system. That’s half of the fun. Cleaning the parts well before plating is essential. After plating I gave the parts quick polish on some areas but mostly it looked fine after I had rinsed everything with water and got the black oxide off the plating. While the plating was going on, It was several hours, also sharpened all the teeth of the wheel with a tiny file. Although it didn’t take many strokes on each teeth this took a good while because they were so tiny. On previous video someone commented that I should have the wick running trough the whole lighter and before putting the cotton in and then cut it in length afterwards. This seemed to work well. Almost all comment are red and tip are listened although I don’t have time to answer most of them. Thanks for reading all the way trough. If you have questions, leave a comment. I might answer or not, I get a lot of comments and questions so I can't answer all but I try to read it all and answer a few every day.

Épisode 45 - Weird soviet VISE RESTORATION

1 juillet 2019

A few weeks ago I bought this cute little vise to use on my projects since I typically work on small items. I think it’s a jeweler’s vise but I have no idea who made it and when. This is much more practical for small projects than the big vise you’ve seen me use. Doing my squeeze lighter restoration I however ran in a problem with the dents in the anvil part of the vise. The dents caused the other side of the rivets I was hammering to deform which doesn’t look good although it has no affect to the practicality of the rivets. So I decided I should probably do complete restoration since the jaws are also pretty worn out. More info can be found after the links. Thanks for watching and remember to subscribe! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME OF MY TOOLS: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV SANDING PADS: https://amzn.to/2ICDr2i SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- I started the project by removing rust and old paint. I removed the paint first because I didn’t want to get too much paint into my rust remover. I’m unsure if there are other reasons to do one before the other. After removing the rust I had 3 things I wanted to do for the vise. 1. Fix and polish the mutilated areas on top of the jaws and on the surface on the anvil. 2. Restore the jaws 3. Straighten the bent metal handle and round plate used to attach the vise to the table. For the first task I used a file until all the dents were gone then I sanded with papers and sanding pads through grits 400, 800, 1500, 2000, 3600, 8000, 12000. This took probably a full workdays worth of time. Then I buffed the surfaces with wool wheel and metal polishing compound. But as you can see the results are worth it. This is probably the polishing job I’ve done. It’s just impossible to keep/get those mirror polished surfaces completely free from grease for nice video. For the second task I used 2 mini files I had. I was lucky there was parts of the old lines left on the jaws. I used those as guides and refiled all the teeth back in there. I had to eyeball few of the lines near the corners because there was nothing left to use as a guide. This took me maybe 3-4 hours. Now the vise grips like brand new. I still need to make some rubber covers for the jaws for projects which I don’t want to damage with the teeth. The third task doesn’t need much explanation. The reason I used the socket as base when hammering the plate was to curve the edge so that the plate grips with the edge too rather than only with the middle part. For the looks I decided to go with this “firetruck” look. I thought red would look nice with the polished parts but I also wanted to have protect the screws from rust with the gun blue solution. I fell black would have looked a bit boring and red seemed to work best with both polished and black steel. I used the fake hammerite product. It’s better available locally that the original but should work as well. I had never tried this sort of paint so I was eager to test it and this seemed like the project to do that. One of the reasons I do these projects is to learn and the only way to learn is to try new things. Overall, I’m super happy with how it turned out. One of my best, both the video and the product. Well see how well the paint will last because I will definitely use this. I can always re-restore it 😉

Épisode 46 - Yellowed Nintendo NES restoration and repair. What's inside this one?

6 juillet 2019

Restoring the original Gameboy got me really interested in restoring and repairing more of these old gaming consoles like this Nintendo NES along side with the knives, tools, etc. I might move into other old electronics as well. I haven’t really done much this type of work ever but with every project I learn and get better. For the disassembly I used a Phillips screwdriver, except for the screws on the top half of the shell. Those had a weird type of screw that could still be opened with a flathead. There was a pit in the middle of the slot, so the screwdriver would be a flathead with a “spike” in the middle. I have not seen those before. No real trick here. Try to remember which screw came where, or film it like me. And don’t loose the screws! Removing the controllers’ and buttons’ cords from the board was much harder than it looks. I probably spent 2 minutes just wiggling them from side to side until they came loose. For cleaning up the boards I used a small airbrush compressor which I have. This blew off all the loose dirt and dust. After this I used Isopropylic alcohol to clean up the rest and remove some corrosion. I works really well and doesn’t corrode the parts. After cleaning everything I tested that the console works before putting it back together. The shell was quite yellowed and had some stains, maybe from stickers. It was also very dirty and more dirt was found from inside. No wonder it had some issues. I sed the same method for “retrobrighting” the shell than I used with the SNES. I only did a little upgrade to the “solarium”. I added a baking sheet that will disperse the light so that the lighting will be more even. I think the optimal method would be to have a clear box inside the solarium and the parts submerged in hydrogen peroxide. With this method I don’t need as much hydrogen peroxide but I need to be watching that the hydrogen peroxide wont dry too much or something because that may cause patchy results. Basically what was done is that I mixed 12% hydrogenperoxide with gelatin to make it less runny (this doesn’t work extremely well. I’ll do something better after I’ve used this batch up). After this I wrapped the whole thin in cling film to prevent the liquid from evaporating. The items were then put into a box with UV-led strips. I’ve tested that the temperature in the box (read MY box) won’t go much above 50 degrees Celsius with I feel, won’t cause a fire hazard, or melt the plastic. After this I just cleaned the parts from the liquid and let them dry before assembly. Fun fact: I spent a long time making the timelapse. There is probably +100 cuts in the clip, it’s not just speeded up video 😉 --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: SANDING PADS: https://amzn.to/2ICDr2i SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 47 - Restoring rusty old straight razor - Restoration project

14 juillet 2019

Times restore another straight razor. These are great projects for restoration. Some of you didn't like that the original handle was not used in my fist 2 restored rusty razors. I wanted to see if I can save the handle on this one. I always think no more razors because I literally spent hours and hours sanding the hardened steel, but I still always seem to do more of these... More info can be found after the links --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Tools used in this video: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 DIAMOND SHARPENING PLATE: https://amzn.to/2jM8izt PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CAR POLISH COMPOUND: https://amzn.to/2l8VHXp RESIN POLISH: https://amzn.to/2jOg0sW CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- As I started disassembling the blade. I had a little trouble because the pin was stuck due to all the rust. I tried to grind down one end of the pin and hammering the pin out, but I didn't dare to hammer very hard as the handle could break and this time I really wanted to use the old handle. Luckily I have the small precision drill. I managed to drill a hole straight in the middle of the pin but the drill also pushed the pin partially out so I didn't have to drill all the way through. Now I was able to take the blade off. I dropped the blade in rust remover for few hours which got most of the rust off. There was a lot of pitting but nothing unfixable. Razor blade is no this it easily rusts all the way through. While removing the rust I noticed the "backbone" (I think that's what it's called) was detachable. It used to have some sort of plating, I think it was nickel because there was no copper plating underneath. I decided to use my plating system to replate it because I can and it's not very too much work and it really work well. I actually left the squeeze lighter shell wet overnight after plating to see if it would rust but it didn't After the rust was removed I just sanded the pitting off. Used rough paper until the pitting was gone and then moved to wet sanding and finally I used metal polish compound and wool wheel to give it the final mirror polish look. For the handle, as mentioned, I wanted to use the old bakelite(?) handle. I washed all the dirt off but it was still very scratched. I figured my best bet are car polish products. I used fist a polishing compound. It is essentially a coarse paste that gives the surface a a fine sanding. For even better results I continued with a resin polish compound which to my understanding gives the handle very thick resin coating which fills tiny scratches. After both the handle and the blade were finished it was time to attach them. I used a thin brass pin, identical to the original one. Finally it was time to remake the edge. I did it last to keep the razor safer while I was working on it. I taped the backbone to prevent scratching. I used a diamond sanding plate. I also did a it of stropping off camera to get the edge really nice. Thanks for watching and reading, if you enjoyed my work, consider subscribing, liking and sharing the video. If you didn't hit the dislike button, twice! and leave me some feedback bellow so I can improve.

Épisode 48 - GROUND FIND lighter Restoration.

20 juillet 2019

I bought this rusty vintage lighter which was found from the ground. I will restore and rescue this vintage item. The lighter is an Imco Triplex 6600 Junior. I really enjoy repairing these Imco lighters because they have such interesting mechanics, but I will do other stuff as well. You can see one side is much rustier and the rust is darker because it has been underground. That speeds up the rusting process because the water in the dirt doesn't evaporate as fast as from the surface. The lighter need a complete reassembly because it needs to be re-plated with nickel to prevent it from rusting again. I'm wondering if my video titles should say ASMR restoration or repair because so many comments in my video mention that. More info after the links. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Tools used in this video: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- The disassembly took a bit of figuring out how it was put together but other than that the only trouble I had was the pin that was stuck inside the wheel. Eventually I had to drill it out and even then there was a piece of metal (from the pin I assume) stuck inside the wheel. There was a space between the 2 holes on the wheel which allowed the metal piece to move around and I wasn't able to push it out so I had to try to drill it out. I used a nail to block the piece from moving around too much so the drill would catch it. After I had all the pieces apart, I used a rust remover to remove the rust. The solution is proprietary but I'm confident that it is a acidic solution with some chelating agents and other stuff that enhance the reaction caused by the acid. The "fuel tank" was bubbling a while after I poured the rust remover so I figured that could be a result of unwanted dissolving as no other rusty components were bubbling. I tested with magnet that it should be steel but I didn't want to risk it as spare parts would be impossible to find. I just wasted the part with the rust remover, which is more work for me but much shorter exposure to the acid. After this I washed everything with water and dried it. After the rust was gone I carefully sanded the rust damages from the pieces and polished them. For flat areas I started with 400 grit paper and over the patterns I only sanded quickly with very fine papers starting from 1500 grits. this helps me to get better polish but doesn't ruin the patterns. For the nickel plating I used a solution of nickel sulphate and nickel acetate which I've made. You can learn more about the process when you search for "electroplating". As an improvement to my previous projects I added a third anode. This will allows me better exposure to the plating process so all areas will have more even plating. It's also a good idea to turn the pieces around every once in a while. The assembly was quite simple process. I was a little worried how to put the pin in while holding all the parts in place with the spring and all, but because I sharpened the tip of the pin it found it's way through easily. Thanks for checking out my video! If you enjoyed it: Subscribe and share it with your friends! If you didn't like it share it with your friends anyways so you can discuss what was the worst part. #Restoration #Restoring #Lighter #Imco #ASMR

Épisode 49 - 1970s Tonka Dump Truck - Toy Car Restoration

29 juillet 2019

I will try to restore this rusty old Tonka dump toy truck. Can I rescue it? I don't know the exact model of the toy but I believe it is a Tonka truck from 1970's. The sticker on it says Toronto Canada. There is a lot of rust and the paint is gone on large areas. The windshield is very scratchy. The white plastic on the wheels has yellowed. More on how I restored it after the links: --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Tools used in this video: BASIC ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 H202: https://amzn.to/2YuQdbn CAR POLISH COMPOUND: https://amzn.to/2l8VHXp RESIN POLISH: https://amzn.to/2jOg0sW SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- I started the project by disassembling the truck. Like most tin toys it was held together with "flaps" that are inserted through holes and bent to secure the parts. It also had 3 rivets which I got off with my rotary tool and some precise grinding. After I had ground most of the rivets off from one side I could just use a punch to get out the pieces that were still left. After the parts were off I removed the paint from the metal parts with paint remover. I wrapped the parts in cling film which helps the process but is not necessary. I left it there for a few hours and the paint came off really easily. Doesn't beat sandblasting but I don't have room for a sand blasting cabinet right now. After the paint was gone I put the parts in rust remover for several hours. This got all the rust off. There was no severe damage done by rust. Whatever damage there was could be covered with just thick primer paint. Once the rust was removed I cleaned the parts well and used a thick primer. I sanded the coat of primer for the best result. This was especially important because this week was very hot which started to affect the paint as the primer started drying before hitting the parts. This is not good for the finish on the parts. This was followed by yellow satin paint, RAL 1028 in this case. That I put on the parts outside as there the temperature was good for painting. The windshield was very scratchy. Even after cleaning it up you couldn't really see through it well. I used car polish product to make it much better. The first paste you see me using is a car polish or cutting compound (found in the links) it has very fine particles that are used to sand the surface to remove previous scratches. Because the compound is sanding it still leaves the surface a little bit dull so I used a resin polish compound which basically will the tiny scratches left from the polish compound and makes a very very thin new top layer on the windshield. Typically these products are used to polish a car. I always want to go the extra mile so I decided to make the yellowed wheel white again and make new stickers for the doors. The deyellowing process is something called retrobright most often used to restore plastics on old electronics such as a gameboy. Basically what you need is hydrogen peroxide and UV-light. In this case only the outside of the wheels had yellowed so I did not have to submerge the parts fully. I only put them in the H2O2 with the yellowed part facing down and put the parts outside in sun with a foil under the container. The foil reflects the UV-light to the yellowed plastic making it white. The old sticker was almost gone and I didn't find the exact same sticker for sale so I redesigned it on photoshop based on some other available stickers. I printed these stickers out and cut them with scissors. Using a die cutter is recommended unless you area god with scissors, like me. I left the sticker making part out because the video was long enough and based on my previous videos most people jump forward the moment I show photoshop on the screen. Wow, this was a long text thanks for reading this far! Sharing is caring and all that... I almost run out of chracters this

Épisode 50 - Restoring rusty old pocket knife found from fleamarket - Knife restoration

10 août 2019

I will restore this rusty 0.5€ pocket knife back it's former glory. I found it from a flea market. The knife is very rusty but there is no major damage besides the pitting from the rust. I hope it's not rusted beyond restoration. I found this very interesting because before actually starting the disassembly I didn’t notice how the assembly was done and I thought it would be a nice project because the pins were hidden and I was curious how the covers of the handle were done, was it paint or something or something else. As usual, some detailed explanation of the processes can be found after the links. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Support me: T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video: Rust remover: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV Basic rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je Bending rotarytool shaft: https://amzn.to/2YTvDxL Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Some of my other tools: Better rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 Drill press for rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-xis table for the drill press https://amzn.to/2WPkttl Power file: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq Cordless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/31Eblej My watch: https://amzn.to/2YVefZt --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- After figuring out how to the knife was put together, I tried to pull those tiny metal tabs back out to get the scales off but I didn’t have a tool that could have loosened the scales. I decided to see If I could pry it apart without ruining the scales. I broke out my old trusty prying chisel. The reason I use it is that it’s hard, sharp (the edge fits to very tight gaps) and the bevel usually helps when I need to take stuff apart. I don’t really have to pry anything I only need to push and the bevel will pull the pieces apart. After scales were off I used a Dremel to grind off the pins. Then all the metal parts were put into rust remover. After the rust was removed I sanded the pitting off from the visible parts. No need to remove material from hidden parts if the pitting doesn’t affect the functionality of the item. For the scales I used the nickel plating system to prevent it from rusting again the same was done to the plates that housed the blade and the small clip at the end of the knife. After the parts came off from the liquid I rinsed them with water to remove the liquid because it’s acidic and could start dissolving the plating after the electricity is cut. The blade was fist sanded to 400 grits. And then hardened in oil. If I hardened it first the sanding would have been much more laborious. On the other hand because I use gas burner to heat the blade up the outer surface of the blade will burn and come off so polishing before hardening is also unnecessary. After hardening the blade it was tempered in a n oven for couple of ours. This makes it less brittle. The plastic covers on the scales were damaged and I wasn’t a big fan of the design so I decided to try adding a layer of veneer on the scales. I diluted some epoxy with thinner to allow me to apply only a very thin layer. If there was a thick layer it would come through the veneer and squeeze out under the edges. I used bunch of rubber bands to apply even-ish pressure on the veneer until the epoxy had dried. After this I sanded off the excess veneer that came over the edges. For the assembly I made some brass rivets. I just cut pieces of brass wire and put them in a vise vertically. Then I hammered once end until it didn’t fit through the holes for the pins anymore. After the parts were assembled together, I cut the pins to wanted length and hammered the other end. It is much easier to assemble the knife if the pins have a little extra length. Thanks for checking out my video. If feel like it, subscribe, like and share! #restoration #restoring #ASMR #ASMR restoration #knife restoration

Épisode 51 - Restoring jammed antique lock and making a new key

19 août 2019

I bought this rusty antique door lock. The lock is jammed from rust and as it turns out I was sold wrong key with it. I will restore the lock and make a new better key for the lock. If you liked the video consider subscribing and sharing the video with your friends. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Support me: T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video: Rust remover: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV Gun blue: https://amzn.to/31KPPnb Basic rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je Bending rotarytool shaft: https://amzn.to/2YTvDxL Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Some of my other tools: Better rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 Drill press for rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-xis table for the drill press https://amzn.to/2WPkttl Power file: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq Cordless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/31Eblej My watch: https://amzn.to/2YVefZt --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- As usual I started my project with disassembly of the lock. This was a very simple disassembly. I was very curious to see how the mechanism was build and I was surprised by how simple the mechanism was. At that point it also became obvious that the key was not original key but most likely the seller had lot of old keys and tried them all and found this was working and then the lock was forgotten somewhere for years and it got rusty. After the disassembly the parts were put into rust remover. I chose not to polish the parts because I thought this sort of bluing would nook more like what the lock has looked like when it was new. I also wanted to make anew key because the key I got wasn't a perfect fit and it seemed like a fun challenge. I took a bolt which was roughly the same thickness the original key had been then I filed a simple ornament on the bolt to make the key look older. I made the ring for the key from nails.I probably have to make special episode about all the times I use nails as something other than a nail. Then I used a dremel to shape the key to fit the lock. This was easy as there was only one of these "pins". I wouldn't want to have the lock on my front door as it seems you can open it with keys that are pretty far from the original one. Also making a new key wouln't be hard if you have any idea what's inside the lock. It only stops burglars from walking straight in. The key I made, looked "wrong". It was too shiny and smooth so I forced some patina on it. I achieved this with electrolysis. The process I used is electrolytic rust removal but on the steel rod instead of the key. This causes the key to corrode so it looks like pitting from rust. After maybe and hour or a bit more I already had nice patina. After the key was finished all the parts were blued with gun blue and oiled to get prevent it from rusting again. The bluing is for both rust protection and aesthetic purposes. Thank you for watching the video! #restoration #repair #antique restoration #asmr #asmr restoration

Épisode 52 - Screen burned Gameboy Pocket restoration and repair

25 août 2019

In this episode I will restore the Gameboy Pocket retro console. This unit is missing the glass screen on top of the actual LCD screen and also the battery cover. I managed to find an original cover. I will show you how to fix a screen burn and do a general cleanup on the Gameboy. I don't do electronical work every week but I promise there will be also this type of videos every once in a while. Check out the link bellow to support this channel. I get a small fee every time you buy from amazon after clicking my links, even if you end up buying something else. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Get My T-shirts from: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Tools and materials for this project: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO Replacement glass: https://amzn.to/2Hr3oRb Polarizing filter: https://amzn.to/2KSz7Nd Replacement rubber pad for buttons: https://amzn.to/2KS9Dzr Isopropyl alcohol: https://amzn.to/324gED7 Service number sticker: https://ebay.to/2MyIfIR Other stuff you might need: Reproduction shell for gameboy pocket: https://amzn.to/2LbuFbl Battery door with the sticker: https://amzn.to/2KSPAAQ Other sticker for the shell: https://amzn.to/2Hr54Kt The Watch: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- To open the shell I needed my electronics screw driver set that has the Y-shaped tri-wing screwdriver The shell is closed with that that sort of screws so no one would go tinkering about on the inside. On the inside the screws were normal Phillips heads (cross shape). Board had different looking screws than the metal piece that was attached to the shell so its not easy to mix them up even though I only used one tray. I took also the metal parts out from the shell because I washed it with water but I only show this in my extended Patreon version of the video. I wanted too keep the youtube version much shorter but without cutting out any of the important parts. The board looked fine and I rubber the whatever small corrosion I found off with Isopropyl alcohol. I recommend using electronic grade alcohol like the one I've linked above. The issue with the screen is called screen burn and it is caused by UV-light. The polarizing filter on the screen is damaged. There is another filter behind the screen which can also get damaged but in this case the damage was luckily not so extensive. Sometimes the filter comes off nicely but in my case I know it was going to leave a lot of adhesive residues because of the crystalline look it had. This is not extremely bad but will mean that getting the adhesive off will be much more work. If you are lucky it might only take 10 minutes but for me it took around 1h 45min. When placing the new polarizer it is very important to keep the adhesive on the polarizer clean and also to keep the screen clean because any residue of the old adhesive will leave a nasty looking bubble and if you touch the polarizers glue with your fingers you might end up with sort of foggy looking areas on the screen. I used a piece of tape to help me with aiming the polarizer on it's place. If the polarizer is slightly off it wont matter as the edger will be hidden pretty well. More important part is to make sure you have no bubbles. I had some because it's actually really hard to do this when filming... But luckily I was able to remove them. Thanks for checking out my video once again! If you liked it please subscribe, like and share it with your friends.I don't post these electronic repairs every week, but there will be more so stay tuned!

Épisode 53 - I Found Rusty Cast Iron Pan from Trash and Restored It

1 septembre 2019

Couple weeks ago I found this rusty cast Iron pan from a dumpster. I didn't see any cracks so I thought it's definitely worth saving and of course It makes also nice little video of the restoration and seasoning process. Next week I'll do something more complex again. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Support me: T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ What I used on the video: Oven Cleaner: https://amzn.to/2NLaNyO Steel wool: https://amzn.to/2zG4aVU Scotch Brite:https://amzn.to/34ek4Fa My watch: https://amzn.to/2YVefZt Some of my tools: Basic rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je Bending rotarytool shaft: https://amzn.to/2YTvDxL Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Better rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 Drill press for rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-xis table for the drill press https://amzn.to/2WPkttl Power file: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq Cordless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/31Eblej --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- I started with by electrolytic rust removal. If you try it, I recommend checking out some tutorials because you are dealing with water and electricity after all. Also as mentioned doing it outside or in well ventilated area is recommended because of the formed gasses. Then I cleaned the pan further with oven cleaner, steel wool and scotch brite. I needed to remove all the old seasoning to get the new seasoning stick properly. I doesn't show too well on the video but at the end the pan is cleaned to the bare metal finish (dark gray instead of black). After the cleanup I used pig fat or lard to create the new seasoning. I started by heating the pan to 100 degrees CELCIUS. This open up the pores on the cast iron and allows better more durable seasoning. after the pan was heated I put on the fist layer of pig fat. then I baked the pan in 250 degrees for 30-60 minutes and let it cool for a moment (not nearly to room temperature). I reaped baking and recoating 5 times, until I was happy with the results. I tested the pan by making "finnish pancakes" which are basically crepes but slightly different I used pre-made powder to speed up the baking process. That's why it looks like it's only flour and water (it's not). Thanks for checking out my video once again! Please, if you liked my video, consider subscribing and leave a like and a comment!

Épisode 55 - Old Spark Lighter Restoration - Imco Funkmeister

17 septembre 2019

In this episode I will restore this Rusty Imco Funkmeister spark lighter. It has a lot of rust but luckily It's mostly on the surface and there is even some of the old plating left underneath. Regardless the metal has a lot of pits and need a good sanding. Luckily there are no dents as those are always a pain to fix. After sanding down all the pitting I re-plated the parts with nickel to protect it from corrosion. For this video I had to get a larger container and do some adjustments to the system. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Support me: Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Rust remover: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV Drill press for rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-xis table for the drill press https://amzn.to/2WPkttl Basic rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je Bending rotary tool shaft: https://amzn.to/2YTvDxL Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Better rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 Power file: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq Cordless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/31Eblej My watch: https://amzn.to/2YVefZt My filming gear: Main camera: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox Tripod: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn Microphone: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz Video lights: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB Main lens: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk Cinematic lens: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH Wide angle lens: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GoPro: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #Restoration #Lighter #Rusty

Épisode 58 - Restoring Rusty Vintage Coffee Grinder - Complete Restoration

7 octobre 2019

Get Surfshark VPN at https://Surfshark.deals/oddtinkering, Enter promo code ODDTINKERING for 83% off and one extra month free! This week I will show you the restoration of this vintage coffee grinder. It has some rust and it's definitely well used so it's was a great project for restoring. I only saw a picture from the from when buying and surprise surprise, it was broken from the back. I'm really just trusting that these items are broken so they make more interesting restoration projects. I started the restoration by disassembling the coffee grinder. I had no real trouble with it. The only issue was the handle that was stuck. But I got it off with a bit of oil and force. The bottom of the coffee grinder was broken so I wanted to replace it. I also don't think the bottom of the box was had the edge of the plywood showing so I changed it a bit. For the steel parts I used a sand blaster to get rid of all the rust. Then I sanded all the parts that will be visible. No need to sand the hidden parts as that would only be removing material for no real reason. I sanded the parts up to 2000 grits. and then I polished them with buffing wheel. I used my nickel plating set up to plate all of the steel parts to prevent them from rusting again. To restore the brass part I used ketchup to remove the oxidation. Ketchup contains vinegar that is the key ingredient. However ketchup is much less smelly and is easy to apply on the surface of the parts. Also the vinegar is diluted so I don't have to worry so much about the damage it could cause because it is an acid after all. Once again I used buffing wheel to polish the parts. I removed most of the old wax from the wood with steel wool and turpentine. Then I gave the parts quick sanding. I made a new bottom as close to the original one as I could. I didn't have suitable wood completely dry so I microwaved it . When doing this you need to be careful not to go too fast but giving it smaller bursts. Then the parts were give new coat of wax and and I assembled the grinder. Thanks for watching my restoration! If you like my videos, subscribe, like and share the video. It helps me a lot. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Support me: Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Basic rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je Bending rotary tool shaft: https://amzn.to/2YTvDxL Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Better rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 Drill press for rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-xis table for the drill press https://amzn.to/2WPkttl Power file: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq Cordless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/31Eblej My watch: https://amzn.to/2YVefZt --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #coffee grider #restoring

Épisode 59 - Restoring the original PlayStation (PS1) - Vintage Console restoration & repair

12 octobre 2019

I wanted to restore a PlayStation 1 for my next console restoration / repair. I got this forgotten Playstation from person who told me it started having issues and then it was stored in a shed collecting dirt and dust, but hopefully not rust. This time I didn't dare to test it before cleaning the worst dirt off because ti could cause it to short of maybe scratch my games as they are spinning in the drive. however I was full of hope as from what I understood and the owner remembered this could be a simple fix. After everything was apart I was happy that there was no bad corrosion, however the way the mod chip was installed made my cry inside. The RF shield looked like the chip was installed by the Hulk himself. Nothing was soldered underneath it so there was literally no reason to bend it. And there was always the option of removing the RF shield which took probably 2 minutes. I bet this person keeps their phone in same pocket with their keys... Enough complaining.. I washed all the "waterproof" parts with soapy water and parts that don't like water I cleaned with compressed air and when necessary with alcohol. After cleaning everything up I put everything back together and tested if the playstation still worked. I did, kind of. The games were not loading and if they were they got stuck to loading windows etc. At this point I was pretty sure the issues was with the disc drive. The question was can I repair it or do I need a new one. This is a common issue with PS1. The sled on the drive that reads the disc runs out of oil and gets stuck causing issues. Sometimes the sled also wear the tracks down ruining the drive so that it needs replacing. Another way to test for drive issues is to use the playstation upside down, If it works it's definitely a disc drive issue. I also wanted to remove the mod chip. I can always reinstall it. But for the purposes of the video (restoration) it makes sense to remove it. I also wanted to fix the damaged RF shield as much as possible I got it pretty good bu hammering it on flat piece of metal. Something like this can never be completely fixed because bending the metal will stretch it making it impossible to get the part 100% flat but I got pretty close so I'm very happy. After all it will be hidden inside the case. Thanks for checking out my video. If you want to see more of my content, Subscribe and hit the bell for notifications! Also sharing this with your friends helps me a ton! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Get My T-shirts from: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Tools and materials for this project: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO Some of my other tools: Basic rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2SOD5Je Bending rotary tool shaft: https://amzn.to/2YTvDxL Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Better rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 Drill press for rotary tool: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-xis table for the drill press https://amzn.to/2WPkttl Power file: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq Cordless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/31Eblej The Watch: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 60 - Restoring World War I Trench Lighter - Antique Lighter Restoration & Repair

20 octobre 2019

This World War I Trench lighter in in dire need of restoration and repair. It's missing some parts and rusted badly. I started restoring this lighter long ago but I continued now because I finally came up with a plan to make new screw for the bottom. Th lighter was made by Imco. You've seen me restore number of Imco lighters previously. They have usually interesting mechanics. Unlike the previous lighters, this design was also made by other manufacturers. This lighter did not have many parts to disassemble. I left the cap attached to the body because it was riveted on and removing it would have cause unnecessary damage to the body I can mask the cap during nickel plating to keep the parts in their original colors. After disassembly the rust was removed with electrolysis and the body was polished. I didn't have too much damage from the rust and the whole body was covered by patterns so I wouldn't have sanded it much anyways. After polishing the pars were decreased with acetone. the cap was pianted with nail polish so it will be protected from plating. If this as not done I would remove the plating from the cap afterwards. Then the parts cleaned with acid bath and electrolysis and put into the green nickel plating bath. While the nickel plating was going on, I made new screw for the bottom. I used 8 mm brass rod. I don't have metal lathe but I wont let that stop me. I used files to shape the rod to the wanted shape and added threads. then I bent a thin wire so it formed a ring. I drilled a hole trough the screw and put the ring on it. I used ketchup to polish the used brass parts. Ketchup has vinegar and enzymes that help with cleaning the brass. It's also readily in nice paste form so it's easy to apply on the surface and it doesn't smell like vinegar. After the plating was done I assembled the lighter. The screw was perfect! During the assembly I still needed to add the second missing part. It was a really simple fabrication, however I was lucky that my first estimation for the correct length was correct. The lighter works really well and is one of the coolest lighters I've restored. I also was inspired to make short scene WWI flashback scene. It turned out to be more distressing than I originally thought but let's not forget WWI was very brutal so maybe that's how it fel like in the trenches. Thanks for watching I hoped you liked my video. Please let me know how you liked it. Next some ways to support me in making more videos. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video: RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW0qOk Ready to use nickel plating kit: https://amzn.to/2J6hVlT SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 61 - Restoring old doctor's amputation saw - FAILED restoration, sort of

28 octobre 2019

This weeks restoration project was an old amptutation saw. These were used by doctors to through a bone when something needed to be amputated. The saw has some rust on it and I was to sand everything flat and replated the parts that have been nickel plated originally plated. And of course it needs to be able to cut through a bone. As you can see I made this video in to a Halloween special. The disassembly was really simple. It the tool only had 2 screws and 2 rivets. the screw came off nicely but I one of the rivets was a bit stuck. I drilled the top of the rivets off and hammered on e of them out with a punch. The other one was so stuck I needed to use a screw which I held with a pair of plies so I could safely just hit with full force. The cone like tip of the screw allows to use a "punch" that wont bend but fits into the small hole for the rivet. I first removed most of the rust with sandblasting using glass bead media. I wanted to try this media and also I didn't want to use anything that would damage the surface bellow the rust. Which is why some of the rust was still left on the surface. I was going to sand it anyways, this just saves me a bit of trouble and gives me idea what I am dealing with. The handle had tiny dents etc. on it so I sanded it all flat. Some of the pits were still left so I filled them with solder and sanded everything flat this way I should all look pretty good after the nickel plating. After the handle was polished I put it in the nickel plating. You want to plate a polished part because the nickel plating will be so this it allows some polishing but hard polishing will go trough it and you need to do it again. I also sanded the other parts. They were not plated be cause they were not originally plated and something it's nice to do everything as close to the original as possible. However when sanding I realized that in order to remove all the pitting in the worst pitted area would need to sand it paper thin, and I would probably end up with some holes to the blade. I was not happy with this. I really wanted to see the saw looking brand new. But you can't always win. And I made it look pretty good. Also sometimes you might want to leave some signs of the age of the restored item. I could have made a new blade, but for me, the blade was probably the most important part of the item because that's the part actually used for cutting limbs etc. The old blade is the what sets this apart from old wood saw. After I realized it was never going to be brand new looking I just decided to leave the pitting and polish the blade up. This gives it an unique look. I tested the saw on a real bone. I think it was important to actually get this in to usable condition especially since I failed with the visual restoration. Also it fit nicely to my halloween theme on the video. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW0qOk Ready to use nickel plating kit: https://amzn.to/2J6hVlT SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS: POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 62 - Restoring the original DualShock for my restored PlayStation 1 – Retro Console Restoration & Repair

2 novembre 2019

I needed a DualShock controller for my restored PlayStation 1 so I wanted to do a restoration and repair for one. I got my hands on this abandoned DualShock controller for the PS1. It was sold to me as working but, as usual it was broken… The shell is also quite badly yellowed and dirty. Couple of the screws on it were rusted. I tested the controller and with the help of another Controller I was able to get to the options and found out that the X button is pressed down all the time. I was able to test most of the other buttons at this point, but this was the only issue I found. The analog sticks and the vibration were also working. I opened the controller and took all the parts out. There was some grime around the buttons on the inside but all in all the housing seems quite dirt proof. After taking everything apart I could see the issue with the X button. The rubber pads that press the have a graphite pads which allow controller to recognize when the button is pressed. Some of this graphite had stuck to the circuit board. This had formed a “bridge” on the circuit making it think the X is pressed down. Eventually this problem would occur with the other buttons as well but I guess X is the most pressed button on the controller since this seems to be a common issue, and it’s always the X button. I used some isopropyl alcohol to clean up the circuit and all the other parts. This was enough to fix the issue. All the plastic parts were washed with soap. They the gray parts were submerged in hydrogen peroxide and left in UV-light for 12 hours. This process is called “retrobrighting” there are several ways of doing it. This submerging method is the easiest but hydrogen peroxide is not free so you might want to use some other method for one project. However, I do this occasionally, doing it like this is worth it for me. The hydrogen peroxide can be reused but in time the solution will dilute and the reaction time will slow down. My previous Game restoration videos show other methods of doing this. The methods typically require H2O2 and UV-light. I had repaired and cleaned the controller I put it back together and tested it. While I was putting it in I also thought it would be cool to show how the vibration engines work. After all that’s what made this controller special at the time. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ My T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 63 - Restoring old German bench grinder - Tool Restoration (+customization)

17 novembre 2019

I needed a bench grinder for the shop and restorations so I decided to buy old quality tool and restore it rather than buy a new Chinese grinder. I found this old Metabo that I liked. It works but there is still some restoring to do as there is some rust and cord is bad etc. It also has a badge the Finnish importer has added on it. Since that is not an original badge I decided to replace it with custom badge of my own since the grinder will be used in future videos. If someone steals my videos I will at least get some promotion. links to my tools and other stuff in the end. Check out Odd Experiments here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCL5OpT5ewaPBpfroIJ4HbFw?view_as=subscriber There was no major issues with the disassembly. After the disassembly I sandblasted the parts to get rid of all the rust and paint. It is often nice to do sandblasting whenever I have to remove both rust and paint because that takes one step less than removing both separately. there is not really other good way to remove both, although electrolysis works on both to some extent. After sandblasting I masked the parts and painted them with sprayable hammer paint that didn't need basecoat. It doesn't have much of the hammer pattern but I really like how it turned out. At first, being very cheap, I tired to just cut the bad part of the cord but it looked bad on the inside as well so I decided it will be safer to replace the whole cord and leave add the vintage plug back to it. The bottom of the grinder had a picture of the schematics which I took a picture of. Then I took that picture to Photoshop and traced everything to make new picture. I also managed to find a font that matched very close to the original hand written text. This was printed on sticker paper and added back where the old picture was. I cleaned the old badges of the front of the grinder but I replaced the bottom badge with a custom one. I will probably make a video on making these type of badges to the Odd Experiments channel. But basically I masked bras plate with paint and used electrolysis to etch the unmasked area very deep. Then the masking was reversed and I painted the bottom of this etched area. To attach the bade I had to drill larger holes because I wanted to use same rivets on all badges. the bottom plate was added afterwards so it had slightly smaller holes. Thanks for watching once again. In case you are a new viewer, please consider subscribing for more weekly-ish content. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ SOME OF MY TOOLS: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 64 - Restoring Dented Vintage "Tommy" Lighter - Lighter Restoration

24 novembre 2019

I will be restoring this dented vintage Tommy-style lighter. I restored one of these almost a year ago and that restoration was one of my first popular videos so now after passing 500 000 subscribers I wanted to try to restore one better. That video was also where I originally got the idea to get my nickel plating set up. I didn't have one at the time so I started plating things a bit later. Starting my new channel "Odd Experiments" this was a perfect opportunity to show in detail how anyone can make a simple plating set up with relatively cheap parts. I will link that video here soon once it is posted. Link to the video: https://youtu.be/O3DCexCLoGQ As a difference to the previous lighter I restored in this one the wheel was attached with a screw that could be removed. In the previous lighter there was no hole to remove the screw. After the disassembly I decided to try to make the dent repair on the tank much easier. I noticed the tank seam running around it and the bottom and top parts were soldered together. I used mini torch and tried to separate those but for some reason that didn't work. Instead I was able to remove the pipe on the tank. Now I had two holes on the top which made it much easier to push out the dents. I used tool made from nail I made in my first lighter restoration video. After I had most of the dents removed. I gave the parts quick polish to better evaluate how much sanding was needed. I sanded the surfaces flat with 400 grit sand paper. After this I polished the parts with metal polishing compound on a buffing wheel with the bench grinder I restored in my last weeks video. After polishing I had to re-solder the pipe to the tank. Used the tiny torch and some electrical solder. I tested it for leaks at this point. Now the parts were cleaned with acetone. Prior to plating no other cleaning was done because polishing had removed all the oxides from the surface already. For nickel plating I used a system I made for "Odd Experiments" video. It is not much different from my normal system but I still wanted to show it in action. Learn more about that from the other channel. After plating I disassembled the lighter and added new cotton, wick, flint and spring. Spring is just part of long spring I bought to cut pieces to my lighters if needed. Tip: a free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : MINI TORCH: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575498514&toolid=10001&campid=5338525131&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FRefill-Butane-Gas-Pencil-Torch-Soldering-Iron-Mini-Welding-Solder-Refillable%2F190813616389%3Fhash%3Ditem2c6d60b905%3Ag%3ASeYAAOSw5wVdl-gS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO Other tools: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 65 - Restoring Extremely Yellowed Sega Dreamcast - Retro Console Restoration

1 décembre 2019

Sega Dreamcast restoration – In this video I will restore Dreamcast console launched by Sega in 1999. I bought this yellowed console and a game from Japan. This is a e version of the console, which can be seen from the red Dreamcast logo. Dreamcast has been one of the most requested consoles in the comments even though back in the day it was a flop. For the disassembly of the Sega Dreamcast I used a phillips tip for my screwdriver. For the firs 3 screws I needed a screwdriver that didn’t have changeable bit because the holes for the screws were so deep and narrow. This console has so many different screws that I used an ice cube tray to hold the screws separately. This also helps me to remember what came from where because I can just put everything back together in reversed chronological order. Once the top part is open you have to be careful to not turn the device upside down without holding the disk reader, because the top part of it is loose and if it falls it might rip out the cables on it or cause other damage in general the disk reader is a sensitive part so you want to be careful with it if you open it up like I did. Once everything was pulled apart, I looked for any corrosion and dirt on the boards. Mainly I had some slight corrosion on the power unit. I used pressurized air to blow off any loose dust etc. and then I used isopropyl alcohol to clean off the corrosion and dirt. In general, there was not much dust or damage, it could be that this console was not used much ever. It also didn’t have the usual signs of previously opened consoles. I also cleaned the disk readers lens and the connection ports with alcohol because because on the very first try (which I didn’t film) I had some connection issue with my av-cable. To get rid of the yellowing on the parts I put the parts in a bath with 12% hydrogen peroxide and left them in UV-light for around 2 days. Everything else was done much faster but the really yellowed parts of the body took ages to get done. After this I washed and dried the parts (this is very important). If moisture is left in the shell it will start corroding the parts again. Thanks for watching! If you have any friends who had Sega Dreamcast, consider sharing this with them. Bellow are some affiliate link that support this channel and help you to figurer out what tool I use for my projects. It’s not a comprehensive list because a lot of my tools I have bought locally. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ My T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 66 - Restoring Sega dreamcast controller for my restored Dreamcast – Retro Console Restoration

8 décembre 2019

Restoration of badly a yellowed Sega dreamcast controller and VMU for the extremely yellowed Dreamcast console I restored earlier. Like the console this unit also has only cosmetic defects. There are some glue reside from stickers and the yellowing is pretty bad. Unlike many other consoles, the Dreamcast plugs memorycards to the controller. They have many other uses also. These same ports can also be used to attach a rumble pack and probably some other accessories as well. I took the controller and VMU (memory card) apart and there was some dust etc. inside but otherwise it looked fine. However I had an issue of some of the yellowed parts containing metal pieces that would be ruined if I sunk them in hydrogen peroxide. I found that the de-yellowing process also works in only sunlight, but it is painfully slow. In addition I don't have many hours of sun outside in december. So I decided to try my UV-light system only on the parts. Why I didn't put all the parts in. Even though the parts are white the reflect a lot less UV-light than the foil around the box. if these other parts absorb the light the amount of UV-absorbed by the parts with metal pieces per hours decreases and it would take me longer to do this. And even now it took me almost a week. The parts that could be sunken in hydrogen peroxide were sunken an it took me a day to get rid of the yellowing, which was worst on these parts. Who know how long it would have taken me if I did it without hydrogen peroxide. Before de-yellowing I washed the parts in soapy water and cleaned the glue residues with lighter fluid as many comments have suggested. All the electronic components were cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. Mine is over 99%. It has almost no waster so it wont corrode the boards. Alcohols are also good at dissolving both water and oil soluble substances. After everything was nice and looking new I let it dry (after washing the h202 off) and put it back together. Thanks for watching. If you like my videos, please consider subscribing! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 67 - WWII Hand-Crank Flashlight/Lantern Restoration - Restoring Lamps

14 décembre 2019

Restoration of WWII era dynamo (hand crank) flashlight. This week I restored this hand-crank flashlight made by Phillips (type 7424). These were used by Germans in WWII. When I got it I had no idea if it worked. After testing thatt it in fact wasn't working I opened it up to find what's going on. Immediately after opening I found that the wire from the dynamo to the was loose so obviously I couldn't have worked when I tested it. After the disassembly the other end of the wire came loose as well. I had to replace the wire immediately so I wouldn't loose the other end inside of the brass housing and that was not filmed. I also found a strange loose part from inside the flashlight. You can see me wondering where it came and hoping that it shows on the video. later I realized someone who had opened the flashlight before me had just put it in there for some reason. The dynamo works so that the magnet is being spun by the hand crank. The polarity of the magnet is not the usual (flat sides being + and -) but the poles are on the curved surfaces. Underneath the magnet inside the brass housing there is a coil which generates an AC current. This current is then lighting up the bulb. I cleaned the parts with ethanol. I chose ethanol because I didn't want to use multiple cleaners and I wasn't sure if paint thinner or acetone would damage the electronics. Then rusty parts were put into rust remover and some rusty parts were cleaned with multispray because I wasn't sure if all metals on those parts can be put into the rust remover. Then some of the parts were polished. The parts inside didn't need to be polished and it's important to consider if polishing actually causes any issues with the device. Polishing removes thin layer of material and you don't want your parts to be wiggling in their places after polishing. I used my typical nickel plating solution also shown in on my other channel Odd Experiments to re-plate the bass parts where the plating was a bit worn and you could see some yellow brass on them. For more info on that check out my tutorial on Odd Experiments. After everything was put back together and the flashlight was working I thought it looked very dim so I got an idea to make a custom LED bulb to fit the flashlight. Wanted to keep the bulb changeable rather than just soldering a LED in place so I can put an authentic bulb back in there. Which do you prefer? The AC current is transformed into DC with a diode so the LED works and wont break. Regular LED would typically break with AC current and also it would show up as "flashy" in the video because it will only light up when electricity moves into one direction. The following Amazon links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ SOME OF MY TOOLS: BLACK GLOVES: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 ELECTRONICS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 68 - Restoring the Original Xbox - Retro Console Restoration & Repair

22 décembre 2019

Restoring the original Xbox. In this episode I will restore this old Xbox. The console is very dusty and it has some problems, but nothing beyond restoration. The disc drive is stuck and it won't save the time and date if it's unplugged. Both are common problems with the Xbox and pretty easy to repair. This unit has been unused for along time and it also needs to be cleaned from all the dust on the inside and outside. I wanted to publish this episode right before Christmas have got this gaming console for Christmas almost 20 years ago. I wanted to keep the stickers at the bottom intact so I used isopropyl alcohol to soften the glue. This allowed me to lift the sticker with a sharp blade without ruining it. Fun fact: the bottom says opening the console will void the warranty. Of course the warranty is over but eve if the console was new it wouldn't. The FTC has deemed warranty stickers illegal in the US with some exceptions. Nevertheless, it was fun to try to get in unnoticed. The disassembly was pretty straightforward. A few screws here and there and a ton of cables to wiggle free. After everything was out of the body I opened the disc drive. I didn't see any tutorials for this type of drive. so I had to figure that out myself. Microsoft used different drives in different versions of the original Xbox. The disc drive is stuck for one of two reasons. Either the rubber band is too stretched and it slips of there is too much dust. I shrunk the band by boiling it for a minute or two. I blew all the dust off and whatever was left was cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol. I also wanted to replace the condensator which is used to keep the time and date if the xbox is unplugged. Condensator is basically a small battery.. Microsoft used cheap condensator for this and they start leaking eventually. Condensator contains acid which causes corrosion and might ruin the motherboard so I had to remove the condensator anyways. I replaced it with similar but different looking condensator. Only in v1.6 xbox the condensator won't start leaking. The corrosion was removed by washing the board with isopropyl alcohol. On the board there was also heat sink to cool the CPU and GPU. Between heat sink and the board there is always thermal past or thermal pad that is used to transfer heat. If there is air gaps the heat wont transfer efficiently enough. Also if the thermal paste dries, that can cause overheating so I replaced the paste. It's important to clean the old paste. A small drop of paste in the middle of the CPU is the best way to apply it. Some people draw X or something else silly but that might cause air bubbles. A simple drop is the best based on my research. Thanks for watching! Please follow the bellow links to support my channel. The Amazon links to products are affiliate links. I will get a small fee whenever you enter the pages through those links, even if you buy something else, but it won't cost you any extra! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 69 - Vintage Pencil Sharpener Restoration & Modification

29 décembre 2019

For a long time I've wanted to restore one of these old hand cranked pencil sharpeners. Restoring mechanical items is always so interesting and this type of vintage sharpener are beautiful. The sharpener was very rusty and it didn't sharpen pens very well so it was in need of a restoration. This pencil sharpener is made by Boston but I'm not sure what year it is. Possibly from the 1940's. I started the restoration by removing rust from rusty parts with rust remover. The shiny part on the shell has not really rusted but the rust on the surface is probably from the other parts so I didn't put it in the rust remover. That part I first polished, but I found out there was a little corrosion damage on it anyways so I went back and sanded away most of the damage and then polished it again. After rust removal there was still some paint left on the parts so I used paint remover and steel brush to remove the paint. Then the parts were re-painted black. Because the blades seemed dull I decided to try to sharpen those with acid bath. I used vinegar. When the blade is in vinegar it will corrode a little which will leave the edge of the blade sharper. I left the blades in vinegar for maybe 2 hours. This same technique is used to sharpen files. The metal part on the handle only needed some polishing so I did that. And the wooden part was first sanded to remove some whatever was left of paint that had been there and then waxed. The following Amazon links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ SOME OF MY TOOLS: BLACK GLOVES: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 ELECTRONICS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 70 - Antique World War I Monocular Restoration - Carl Zeiss Jena

5 janvier 2020

This week I restored this World War I monocular used by the Germans and made by Carl Zeiss. It’s a pleasure to restore such a high quality piece of optics. There is a lot of dust and dirt inside so you can barely see anything through the lens. The surface needs some restoration as well. I decided to leave the eye piece assembled because it was constructed so that I would have had to damage it to disassemble and I wasn’t sure I could put it back together as well as it was. Also I didn’t see any major dirt or other reason inside to give me an excuse to risk it. After the disassembly I cleaned the brass parts with ketchup and then polished those with wool wheels and polishing compound. Ketchup is a great way to remove patina from brass. It contains vinegar and also some enzymes which help with removing the oxidation. It also doesn’t smell and it is readily in easy to apply formula. Vinegar is also more aggressive which could leave to damage to my unoxidized brass. The aluminum sheets or caps from the ends of the monocular body were stripped from paint and sanded down and polished as well. The one with text was sanded with 250, 400, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit sand paper. With the one with the text I started lightly from 400 to preserve the text. I also tried paint stripper for the monocular body but the texture on it didn’t come off well. It only softened a little. I decided to scrape most of it off with a screwdriver and then remove rest with scotch bright wheel. I didn’t have to bee too careful not to scratch the body because I would cover it in leather anyways. Other parts were cleaned with acetone. To cover the monocular with leather I had to first sand the leather a little thinner. I tried to press it evenly on the belt sander. This was very slow process. I probably should have used rougher belt but I had never done this before. Then the leather was soaked in water to allow me to streck it to the shape of the monocular. This made it much easier to glue it on. I mixed some silicone with a little of acetone to make it flow better and used a syringe and a needle to apply a thin line to seal the ends during the assembly. Hopefully this will reduce the collecting of dust inside the monocular so the visibility will stay as good as I got it. The following Amazon links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ SOME OF MY TOOLS: BLACK GLOVES: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l ELECTRONICS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO ACETONE: https://amzn.to/2QIBAeQ DREMEL FLEX SHAFT: https://amzn.to/2FoBvYl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 71 - Restoring Broken Controller S for the Original Xbox - Retro Console Restoration & Repair

12 janvier 2020

In this week’s episode I will restore this broken Xbox controller S. The cable is broken, and the shell is yellowed. Also the thumb sticks need some restoration. When I tested it I was able get it working briefly but then the cable seemed like it was completely done. The footage of the controller connecting briefly was the last time I was able to see any signs of life. But luckily, I was able to pin point the issue so I could still repair the old cable and not change it completely giving it a few more years. The shell was also not properly closed and after opening it I found some pieces that held the screws had broken off. I hate this type of devices because as you might notice I can’t use my screwdriver set to open all the screws. I also used a correct size screwdriver without changeable tip. The problem is that most of these screw drivers don’t have magnetic tips so it’s sometimes frustrating to get the screws out. Other vise the controller was pretty simple to disassemble and there wasn’t too many parts. A lot of the parts were soldered to the board so I left them on. Besides a little dirt the controller had 3 major issues: pieces had broken off from the shell, the cable was damaged and the shell had yellowed. I started the process with retrobighting (removing yellowing from the shell). I just posted a video on my other channel Odd Experiments. If you want to learn more about this technique go check that out. Link to the video https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s Mean while I had the controller in the solution I stated working on the broken cable. The Xbox cable is very hard to work with because it has this big plastic piece (ferrite) near the controller and the most common place for the cable to break is from where the cable enters the controller. This often leaves very little wire to do a proper splicing. Because I also wanted to restore the controller visually close to original I didn’t want to cut the ferrite off, even though I think it might not be necessary even though I have not tested it. The ferrite is there to prevent electromagnetic interference. In order to find the broken part of the cable I had to cut it and then I tested which side was not intact. This is only good idea if you can pinpoint the problem. I could also have sliced the side of the wire open and tried to look for the broken wire. Then I stripped all the wires, wrapped them together and soldered them back together. All the joints were wrapped in electrical tape to prevent contact with the other wires. I covered all of this with black shrink wrap because the controller shell is transparent so I wanted the cord too look relatively original on the inside. After the cable was repaired and I rested that it worked took the parts out from the retrobrighting solution and rinsed them with water. After the parts had dried I used superglue to attach the pieces that had broken off. Then it was time to assemble everything. The controller not works perfectly and looks (close to) original again. The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX REPLACEMENT THUMB STICKS: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575498514&toolid=10001&campid=5338525131&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FAnalog-thumbsticks-for-original-Xbox-controller-S-Microsoft-old-1st-gen-ZedLabz%2F272214704800%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%253AMEBIDX%253AIT%26_trksid%3Dp2057872.m2749.l2649 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 72 - Restoring Worlds Smallest Lighter - Vintage Lighter Restoration & Repair

19 janvier 2020

This mini lighter in missing some parts and it is in general very dirty and in need of full restoration. The lighter is very small only an inch or 2.5 cm tall. It’s the smallest lighter I’ve ever seen. It used to be nickel plated but the plating has worn off. The plating has to be restored. I also need to make a new screw for the flint because it would be very hard to find one. I took off all the easy to remove parts and washed the lighter. Then it was put to rust remover. Rust removers basically work similarly to vinegar or other acids so they also work on brass. If you leave parts in there for too long they might dissolve so I usually do something else with brass. This time I thought the cap mechanism might unjam after treating it with rust remover. But it broke. Probably the spring was already so damaged the little acid broke it. Remember that I almost always put my lighter spring in rust remover and this is the first time something has broken. After the rust remover I washed the parts with water again to remove the rust remover. Notice what I did there? Remove the rust remover. Brass can usually just be polished without sanding, unless there are some major pits in it. Brass is so soft the buffing wheel will wear it down pretty fast. This was the case with the lighter as well. So I polished the parts without sanding. I use a wool wheel with metal polishing compounds. Then it was tome to make a new screw. I wanted it to have sort of knurling for better grip but I don’t have the tools to do “real” knurling. So I came up with a plan. I used a socket to create the knurling. I hammered a piece of brass rod in a socket which had number of “teeth”. The brass is so soft the teeth easily made nice evenly spaced lines to the rod. Then I drilled a hole to the rod. I made a thread on a smaller brass rod. The smaller rod was soldered in the drilled hole. Again my apologies for blocking the screen. I would usually re-film that but I didn’t want to remake the whole screw for couple seconds of footage. After soldering the screw was polished like the other parts. The polished parts were electroplated with nickel in plating bath. If you want to learn more about this technique. Go check out my tutorial about it on my other channel, Odd Experiments. Tip: a free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : MINI TORCH: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575498514&toolid=10001&campid=5338525131&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FRefill-Butane-Gas-Pencil-Torch-Soldering-Iron-Mini-Welding-Solder-Refillable%2F190813616389%3Fhash%3Ditem2c6d60b905%3Ag%3ASeYAAOSw5wVdl-gS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW0qOk Other tools: CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 73 - I restored this rusty $1 can opener to find out It’s worth MUCH more…

26 janvier 2020

I got this ancient looking can opener for just 1€ to restore it. While restoring it I found out it was not a worthless vintage item like I thought… The can opener is pretty rusty and the old paint is partially gone. Also the wooden part is pretty bad looking and there is a bit of mold on it. Sometimes looking for items to restore I make similar finds which I could flip fast for good profit. My typical projects are so laborious and require me to buy expensive parts so they are not usually good for making profit. So far I’ve kept all the items to myself. However it would be interesting to occasionally post videos doing restorations for business and flipping flea market finds for profit. Would you be interested in such videos? After buying the can opener I started googling vintage can opener etc. and I found similar looking opener that were used by German in the world war 2. German ground find items are not extremely rare here, but I didn’t see any markings so I thought it’s probably just normal can opener with similar design. After disassembly I cleaned most of the loose dirt off the parts and put the parts is rust remover. After sitting in there overnight, I could just wash off the loosened rust with water. After this washing I noticed there was some text on the scales. I removed the paint with paint stripper and found that it said FRAWAG elite. This meant this is an original German can opener from WWII. I went on ebay to check out the prices and I was blown away to see the most expensive german can opener were priced at 150 euros (165 USD). For a can opener! And I got it for 1€… Under the paint there was some sort of plating. I wasn’t sure I could nickel plate over it for even color so I removed it by sanding. The other metal parts were sanded as well. I went all the way up to 2000 grits. After this the parts were polished. This gives a decent polishing results with reasonable work. The blade was also sharpened with a tiny file because I intend to use this. I only have one of those “normal” can openers which are basically a bent piece of sheet metal. After the metal parts were polished I cleaned the up with acetone and electroplated them with nickel. More about that process can be found from my Odd Experiments video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ&t). Nickel plating will protect the parts from rust. I didn’t plate the blade because the nickel would just wear off. That amount of nickel would certainly do no harm but it doesn’t do any good either. And I will have to clean the blade after use anyways. I decided that since the mold on the wood hadn’t done much damage I sanded it off and then sanded the whole handle so that it still had nice patina to remind of the history of the item. Also I really like the patina’s contrast with the polished metal. After all the parts were done I assembled everything with rivets. And gave the can opener a quick polish to remove whatever scratches I had got on it during assembly. A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW0qOk CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Other tools: CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 74 - Bent Bicyclist's Wrench Multitool Restoration - Restoring Rusty Tools

2 février 2020

I will restore this cool wrench multitool designed for bicyclists. It acts also as a tyre tool for removing the tyre of the bicycle. It is jammed and bent. Also the rust makes it very bad to use as a tyre tool because it will damage the wheels. After polishing it will slip between the wheel and tyre a lot easier. To disassemble the wrench I could have drilled out the pin and then removed the wheel and the lower jaw. But I didn't see any advantage in that compared to the method used. My method was much easier and less likely to cause permanent damage. After the disassembly I left the parts overnight in rust remover. After this I washed the parts in water. In my old videos I do it with the rust remover but using water will let me use the same rust remover longer. After the rust was gone I decided to fix the bent shaft. I heated the shaft from the bent area and bent it back while the wrench was in a vise. However this ruined whatever hardening there ever was. Before I could harden the tool I needed to file all the pits and sand it because it would be much more work after the steel is hardened. After everything was filed I used the furnace I made from a bucket to heat the shaft and hardened it in oil. Forge would be better but I only have a furnace and it seems to work. although it's not optimal because it a little awkward to put items in there. I didn't want to heat the whole piece with lower jaw and the wheel just to make sure I don't cause any unnecessary damage. After all I only needed to harden the jaw. So I used a small torch to heat the jaw and hardened it in oil as well. After the parts were hardened I started polishing them. After polishing I used an airbrush to paint the middle of the handle of the wrench. This allowed me to make a fade at the end of the tool rather than a hard edge. This was optimal because there was not a good point to put the hard edge to. Also it's a something I've not seen on tools and it compliments the way the handle turns into a tyre tool. I wasn't sure if it would look good but I think it looks great, especially with the red color and polished metal. Thanks for watching. Please let me know what do you think about it! A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW0qOk CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 My filming gear: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 75 - I Restored This 2$ Ebay Junk Game Boy Color - Retro Console Restoration & Repair

9 février 2020

After a while of searching I was able to find bad enough Game Boy for my restoration videos only for $2. Usually I have to pay a little extra for the worst items. The console was sold as junk and for spares but pretty much everything except the speaker is broken. The mother board doesn’t power on. The shell is badly yellowed. Stickers are in terrible condition and the screen is badly burned. I will try to restore this fully rather than use it as spares for easier projects because I’d still have to fix most of the parts. The Gameboy T-shirt is no longer available. It was limited time only. I started the restoration by trying to get the power on. First I tried to clean corroded the contacts but that was no use. The power switch was working fine which meant the board was bad. Luckily I was able to find the broken part with a second GB color I have. The connection from one battery terminal had broken quite near the terminal I soldered a wire between the spots that were supposed to have a connection and it worked. This might not always work because it might leave something out of the circuit. The corroded terminal was hard to clean while it was on the board so I desoldered it and removed the corrosion with rust remover, after which it was plated with nickel. Nickel will protect it from corrosion to certain extent. Nickel plating tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ Now that I had power I could fix the screen. To fix “screen burn” I need to remove the burn polarizing filter and replace It with a new one. A sharp blade can be used to get the start but after that the filter will peel off by hand. Some of the glue will stay on the screen. I removed it with Isopropyl alcohol. All glue must be removed or the new polarizing filter will have bubbles. When putting a new polarizing filter on one must figure out which way the polarizing filter works best on the screen. It will only work at a certain angle. I also removed the yellowing from the plastic shell which was supposed to be colorless. For this I used the same retrobrighting method as always. H2O2 and UV-light. Full tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s Thanks for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp REPLACEMENT GLASS: https://amzn.to/2uxPJ7r RUBBER PADS: https://amzn.to/2S8ybI2 POLARIZER: https://ebay.to/2vf110s RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2ro0cAo POWER SOURCE: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 76 - Nuclear Submarine Light Restoration. Cold War Restoration

16 février 2020

I bought what I (and the seller) thought was a rusty ship light for 30 euros to restore it. After doing some research on ebay etc., I found the lights were probably from a nuclear submarine and worth well over 200 euros. Pretty great find. And it was a lot of fun to restore it even though all the rusted bolts and screws gave me some gray hair. The disassembly on this project took a lot of time. Probably half of the screws were so badly stuck I was almost not able to open them and some of them broke. Even after soaking the parts in rust remover some of those would rather brake than open. I drilled those holes open and made new threads for those. I also had to make most of the broken screws by myself but I left that out from the video. Basically I used a normal screw as a base and rounded the heads and cut them to desired length. Rounded tops are not common these days so I couldn’t find any of those from shops near me. After I had used rust remover I used paint stripper to remove the old paint. The parts were painted with light gray, like it originally was. This paint doesn’t need a base coat underneath. I didn’t fill/file all the casting marks to keep the original look and because I fell this type of item doesn’t need to be all completely even and shiny. That would also have required me to remove a lot of material as there were some deep pits from the casting process. I also nickel plated all the steel parts that were left outside the shell to protect those from rusting again. I had to do a slight modification for the electronics. The lamp originally had some wire running to other lamps but since I only had one lamp I decided it’s better to remove those rather than leave cut wires with live electricity inside the lamp. I thought it would be fun to add an alarm noise and time relay to the switch so it would have this alarm effect like there was an emergency or a missile launch. Tip: a free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW0qOk Other tools: CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 77 - Zippo lighter restoration - US Army lighter brought back to life

23 février 2020

I will restore this Zippo lighter someone had found from the ground. It was most likely lost by an US army man years ago, but I don’t think it has been in any war. The lighter is very oxidized and most of the old plating is gone. The insert is in much better condition but it also need a little restoration. Luckily the hinge is not broken so I don’t have to repair it. That is not easy. I started the restoration with disassembly. The lighter doesn’t have many parts so this was easy to do. I used a miniature propane torch to loosen the emblem. I decided to use rust remover for the steel insert and ketchup for the brass shell to remove oxidation. After oxidation was removed, I needed to sand off the remaining old plating from the shell. If I didn’t it would be really hard to get a good finish on the piece. After sanding the plating off I polished the parts with wool buffing wheel and metal polishing compound. Before I could re-plate the polished parts they needed to be cleaned from grease and polishing compound. I used acetone for the job. Then it was time to replate the parts with nickel. I used electroplating method. You can learn more about that from here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ After the plating, I attached the emblem back on with some solder. I used flux to help the solder flow between the parts. It might look like the solder didn’t go between the parts but it only needs very little solder in there because the layer is so thin. As you can see I scratched the part quite violently and it sticks. Then I assembled the rest of the lighter and added new cotton, wick and other parts on the inside. A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV0qOk ZIPPO WICK: https://amzn.to/2T5C0Nr ZIPPO FLINT: https://amzn.to/2us5T2o ZIPPO LIGHTER FLUID: https://amzn.to/2T4UgXi ZIPPO COTTON & FELT PAD: https://amzn.to/2VgMpbJ SCREW FOR FLINT: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KS4751P?ie=UTF8 Other tools: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 78 - Restoring a Broken $2 Tetris Handheld. 9999999 Games in 1

2 mars 2020

I bought this old broken Tetris style brick game hand held console for restoration for $2. You can also buy similar devices new for the same price, but sometimes it's about the journey, not the destination. I don't know what math they used to calculate the promised 9999999 games, but I think the real number is a bit under 3000, mostly different variation of Tetris. The console is badly yellowed and dirty, the audio doesn't work, some screws are missing, and there is a lot of rust on the contacts. I started by disassembling the console. Somehow I was surprised how cheap it was on the inside. Not sure what I expected... I found the audio was missing because one of the wire was loose. I suspect some parent may have done that to make the device silent because the sounds were really loud and irritating. The wire was easy to solder back on. Second issue with the device was the corroded terminal for battery. This happens when a battery is left on the device and it leaks. This can sometimes ruin the motherboard but in this case everything was fine. I desoldered the terminals and put them in rust remover to get rid of the rust. After this I re-plated the terminals with nickel. Here's a tutorial to DIY nickel plating I made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ It was necessary to prevent them from rusting again. If I wanted to do an upgrade I could have fitted new terminals from a Gameboy because those are made of copper which is far better conducting. I also removed the yellowing from the plastic shell which was supposed to be colorless. For this I used the same retrobrighting method as always. H2O2 and UV-light. Full tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s Thanks for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp REPLACEMENT GLASS: https://amzn.to/2uxPJ7r RUBBER PADS: https://amzn.to/2S8ybI2 POLARIZER: https://ebay.to/2vf110s HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2ro0cAo POWER SOURCE: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 79 - I Restored And Repaired This Antique Ship Compass

13 mars 2020

Get an extra $5 bonus when you take your first survey! Click here to get started now: https://www.influencerlink.org/SH1rl Thanks, Swagbucks for sponsoring! - Restoring Antique Ship Compass. I restored this old ship compass. The compass was not working because there was no fluid in it and it was very dirty and patinated. Also the paint was in bad condition and some of the screws needed to be replaced. Only issue I encountered during the disassembly was the empty bottom piece being stuck so I had to use a hammer and a screw driver to release it. I think the bottom is there to act as a weight. to keep the compass level. I often clean up brass with ketchup. This time I wanted to try electrolysis. I had never tried it on brass but there was no risk of permanent damage. Good thing about electrolysis is that I can leave it just running and come back later and it will remove both oxidation and paint. However something unexpected happened. The wire I used was zinc plated and I didn't realize the zinc could dissolve and move on the brass. I'm unsure what caused the reaction but I think it could be electroless plating, a method of metal plating which doesn't require electricity. Luckily I forgot to clean one of the pieces so I could still demonstrate a successful cleaning process. When you are using electrolysis for cleaning it doesn't matter too much what current and voltage you use. More means faster reaction (but obviously don't use mains electricity) But if you hook the cables the wrong way around your parts will be destroyed. Zinc plating was not an issue because the steel wires were only zinc plated. Such tiny amount of zinc spread on the whole surface area of the parts is not thick enough to last a polishing. I used my restored buffing wheel to polish the parts and then I used car polishing compound in tight spots to polish the metal and remove the layer of zinc. The dial of the compass would have been a pain to disassemble as there were nails piercing the dial sheet and they were soldered on the body. Only issue with the dial was the paint. I tried to use acetone and paint thinner but the paint was not dissolving easily so I sanded it off. In hindsight, I probably could have used electrolysis for this as well because it will anyways sit in a liquid in the compass so it's unlikely that the dial would be somehow damaged in the process. I then painted the dial and the inside of the compass with an "antique white" color. It has a slightly greenish tint even though because of the hard contrast it might look snow white. The screws on the top were damaged so I made new ones from some larger brass screws. The top of the screws were too wide but with a simple customization I was able to make new ones. All the other screws were cleaned and polished so they could be reused. During the disassembly I filled the compass with alcohol solution so it won't freeze. In reality it took me quite some time to get rid of all the tiny bubbles but I've worked with filling medical IV syringes manually so I have a few tricks up my sleeve. Someone might say there has to be a bubble to see the compass is level, but the glass is completely flat and on a ship it will never stay so level the bubble would be in the middle of the flat glass. Thanks for checking out the video. I hope you enjoyed it! A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : BLACK GLOVES: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 ELECTRONICS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6k ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 POWER SOURCE: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT Other tools: CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 80 - I Restored This $5 Ebay Junk Gameboy Advance. It Used to be Blue – Retro Console Repair

21 mars 2020

I found this ruined Gameboy Advance for $5 it was sold as junk and it doesn't work. It is extremely yellow. The original color was transparent light blue called Glacier. This sort of projects are always interesting as I never know if the console has been completely destroyed on the inside or if it has only a small issue. Check out also my Gameboy t-shirt design, I will remove it from the store at the end of March: https://teespring.com/dmg-01-gameboy-blueprint-by-ot?pid=387&cid=101865 I started the restoration by trying to get the power on. First I tried to clean corroded the contacts. To do that I needed to desolder the top of the switch. New switches can also be bought online if you just prefer to change it. After opening the switch I used isopropyl alcohol to gently clean the contacts. If you can't desolder it you can try to get isopropyl alcohol in the switch and then turn it on and off multiple times (with no batteries) similarly to what I will do with the volume wheel. However I think this is not as good method because it only spreads the dirt on on the inside rather than removing it. Once I got the power on I noticed the volume wheel didn't do much. It occasionally got some contact and turned the volume louder for a brief moment. I thought that it may have the same issue as the power switch. It was so this was very easy fix from the "technical" point. These were the only functional issues I found. I also removed the yellowing from the plastic shell which was supposed to be colorless. For this I used the same retrobrighting method as always. H2O2 and UV-light. Full tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s Thanks for watching my video! I you want to see more videos like this, consider subscribing so you won't miss them! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Some tools from this project: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Plastic prying tools: https://amzn.to/2J1f51k Hydrogen Peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV-LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% Isopropyl alcohol: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Power source for LEDs: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #nintendo #repair #console #asmr #gaming

Épisode 81 - I Restored $5 Destroyed iPhone 4S Back to Brand New - Phone Restoration & Repair

29 mars 2020

I bought this iPhone 4S from ebay to restore it. I haven’t worked much with such “new tech” or phones so this was an interesting and challenging restoration. It has only a broken screen and power button which turned out to be quite simple fix and easy to troubleshoot. I will replace the screen and the power button / light sensor cable. I also changed the color of the iPhone to black because I like how it looks, especially with the brushed steel. This project was mostly just a disassembly, quick cleanup with isopropyl alcohol, sanding the body and reassembly with the broken parts replaced so I will not write a long text this time. All the cables are super delicate, and the connectors will snap in place with ease after you find the right position. You should never try to force them in to place. Also when replacing the screen you should be very especially careful to get the cables through the body without bending them in wrong places. You will only ruin the connectors if you try. The special screwdriver for the bottom Jerry's parts sheet: https://jerryrigeverything.com/2014/01/iphone-4s-easy-screen-swap/ Some tools from this project: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Phone repair kit: https://amzn.to/2UHcbEs More plastic prying tools: https://amzn.to/2J1f51k New screen for iPhone 4S: https://amzn.to/2wLhjPF New back glass: https://amzn.to/3bBWrJM Power button/sensor replacement: https://amzn.to/3dAaqkU Replacement battery: https://amzn.to/2yi8WM7 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #apple #iPhone #repair #tech

Épisode 82 - Vietnam War Trench Art Lighter Restoration & Repair

5 avril 2020

I was sent this trench art lighter from Vietnam for restoration. It's made in early 70's . It's been somewhat oxidized but some parts have stayed in pretty good shape. I started the restoration by disassembling the lighter. During the disassembly the screw holding the body together broke because it was so badly rusted. This was no major issues because it was easy to replace it. This time I chose to use rust remover to remove the oxidation and rust from the parts, other than the lighters tank. The tank contained sort of porous material to hold the gas so I didn't want to fill it with rust remover but I sandblasted the rusty areas of it. Then I sanded it up to 2000 grits. The links lost their blueing so I needed to re-blue them. I heated the links with a torch and dropped those in oil. I used oil intended for chain saw chain but it doesn't really matter. The other parts were pretty much ready to be polished and then nickel plated from the rust remover. Here is my nickel plating tutorial for more information on the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ& A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV0qOk ZIPPO FLINT: https://amzn.to/2us5T2o Other tools: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 83 - Antique Handcuff Restoration and Bluing

19 avril 2020

I will restore these rusty antique handcuffs. I bought this interesting pair of handcuffs for restoration. The handcuffs work but they are really rusty. I will remove the rust with electrolysis and the blue the steel to protect it from rust. The handcuffs are constructed in a way that they can’t be disassembled. That is probably a very good design for handcuffs because you don’t want the prisoner to be able to easily disassemble them. To remove the rust I put the handcuffs in electrolysis bath. This will loosen the rust. After that the handcuffs were rinsed clean and dried from the water with heat gun. Then I cleaned the handcuffs with acetone. This will help me to get better result during bluing. For bluing the handcuffs I used my furnace. This could probably be done with torch only but furnace will help me to heat the steel more evenly. If the steel is uneven some parts of the handcuffs might get a bad finish. I heated the handcuffs to a little over 300 degrees Celsius and quenched them in oil. The oil will burn the surface bluish-black color. Which will protect the steel. Link to mk furnaxe upgrade: https://youtu.be/WrA2zHYRXXo A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools : CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV0qOk MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 84 - Rare Vintage Lighter Restoration - Clinton Squeeze Lighter

26 avril 2020

I will restore this awesome Clinton squeeze lighter. There is some rust and damage from pitting but the mechanism works. Also the plating on the lighter is in need of a restoration. I really like this type of mechanical lighters because it’s always fun to take look and see what’s inside. The restoration was quite straight forward. I had no issues with the disassembly, other than the fact that some parts fell out and I didn’t see where they came from. Luckily it didn’t take too long to figure out how to put it back together. I used rust remover to get rid of the rust. It is very simple solution when there are a lot of small pieces and it is not abrasive. I also like to use rust remover because I often get the disassembly filmed quite late. I can get the part to rust remover fast and then leave them there overnight and continue the next day. After rust was removed I sanded all the pitting from the parts. This took many hours I had to be very careful with the largest shell part because there was this pattern and I didn’t want to ruin it by sanding. After sanding I first copper plated the parts and then nickel plated them over the copper. The copper will increase the durability of the plating. Here’s my nickel plating tutorial, copper plating works with the same principles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ Video where I made the ignot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrA2zHYRXXo The other parts were pretty much ready to be polished and then nickel plated from the rust remover. Here is my nickel plating tutorial for more information on the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ& A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2J62kTy NICKEL PLATING SOLUTION: https://amzn.to/2oW RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV0qOk ZIPPO FLINT: https://amzn.to/2us5T2o Other tools: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 85 - I Restored This Yellowed Keyboard for My Home Office - Retro Tech Restoration

3 mai 2020

Since everyone, including me, are working at home offices now I decided to restore this yellowed retro KeyTronic keyboard. It’s quite yellow and dirty, one of the keys even got stuck when I tested if the keys move properly. I will also connect it to modern laptop with only USB connectors. The original color of the keyboard is beige so it will have slight yellowness to it anyways but you will see the difference in the end. This model is an ergonomic keyboard. You can tell it by the curved base for the keys. The keyboard has no screws. It is held together only by plastic tabs that I needed to pry open. It’s important to be careful with those as they might break easily. Once everything was pulled apart, I could see there was no damage on the inside. Only decades worth of dirt and grime. To remove the keys I made a handy little tool from a paper clip. They sell “real” tool for this, but I don’t thin those are any better. Once the keys were out I washed all the dirt of the parts and I put them in the “solarium” with hydrogen peroxide. More about this process called retrobrighting here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s To connect the keyboard to USB port I used two cables female PS/2 to USB cable especially meant for connecting keyboard and mouse to USB port. And Male PS/2 to Male PS/2 cable. One end of the second cable was changed to 5 pin DIN female plug to connect which fit the keyboard. The wiring standards for these types of plugs for keyboard can be found from google. I soldered each wire to the correct positions and with these 2 cables I could now connect the keyboard to my laptop. I could have connected the 5 pin DIN plug straight to the USB cable but now I can use that same adapter still as PS/2 adapter. A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA PS/2 to USB adapter: https://amzn.to/3c5S6PG 5 pin DIN to PS/2 (the adapter I made): https://amzn.to/2KSitfO Power source: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT Other tools: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 86 - WWII Flashlight with Rust Holes - Restoration

17 mai 2020

I bought this World War II German Flashlight. The model is Daimon Telko Trio. It was a common typo flashlight the Germans used. It is a bit rusty and the traps on the back were completely gone. Later I also found that the rust had even amde some holes that needed to be fixed. This project took me forever to finish due to so many phases and filming makes everything many times slower. I even made a 40 minute version of the project to my Patreon page. It has a few extra scenes and clips. I began by disassembling the flashlight. Everything was riveted together so I needed to drill a lot of the rivets out. This type of rivets were not easy to find and only ones I found were in a bag of 500pcs and the price was 50€ ($54). So I made my own rivets. I also used a rotary tool to remove pins with peened ends. For making the rivets I needed some custom tools but that can be seen on the video but basically I cut pieces of brass tube of correct size. After this I used the tools to widen one end of the tube into a funnel like shape. This funnel was then hammered flat to create a rivet very similar to the original ones. A pop rivet could have been used but I don't thin it would have been a good choise from restoration perspective. Thank you for watching! The following Amazon links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ SOME OF MY TOOLS: BLACK GLOVES: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 DIAMOND BITS: https://amzn.to/2X7ruXU CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 ELECTRONICS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/3g0dGqO VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 89 - Old Dented Car Horn Restoration - Soviet Resotoration

1 juillet 2020

I will restore this vintage car horn. The horn has many dents and some rusty and it is in need of a full restoration. I'm not sure which brand this is or in what type of vehicle it used to be in, some sort of car or truck. Of course I will also test and see if it will honk. I started by disassembling the car horn and cleaning the parts from dirt and rust by sandblasting and washing the parts. Some parts were too delicate to sandblast. E.g. the metal sheet which produces the sound was rusty but I didn't want to sand blast it but I had sanded it so I had better control over the process. Each part was either painted red and protected with 2K clear coat or polished. And the metal sheet producing the sound was blued with gun blue. This is definitely something that will be sitting on the self so I'm not too worried about rust or anything. The cord of the car horn was replaced with with new one which matched the new colors better. In the end I needed to adjust the honking mechanism to get it make any sounds. Besides the adjustment nut shown in the video, the nut in the center of the metal sheet making the sound needs to be tight enough. It took me a while of experimenting setting with these to get it make the sound. Here are some ways to support my channel. The amazon links are affiliate links and I get a small fee after anything in bought from amazon after using these links. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ SOME OF MY TOOLS: BLACK GLOVES: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl ELECTRONICS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 90 - Beaten up U.S. Army lensatic compass restoration - Restoring militaria

14 juillet 2020

I restored this old U.S. Army lensatic tritium compass, which is very worn and the lenses are so dirty and scratched it is a bit hard to see through. The magnifying glass was completely impossible to use. It is also missing the lanyard. This is a quite simple restoration and service project. I started the project with a disassembly. I had to drill out the rivet from one of the other hinge had a spring pin which I hammered out. Other than that the whole compass was held together with 4 screws and a sort of a lock ring (I hate putting those back in by the way). This one was not an actual ring but the idea was the same. After the disassembly I used paint stripper to remove the old paint. I thought That is probably the least abrasive method as the body is made of aluminium. Also one of the pieces had a rubber gasket and other one had delicate pieces of tritium and wire which I was not able to remove without causing any damage. Paint tripper allowed me to remove the paint without damaging those parts. After removing the paint I put on a coat of primer and military grade paint. It has great NIR (near infra red) reflecting values. That means it will be much harder to detect with night vision. It will look the same color as leaves etc. Normal paint is usually only hard to detect in daylight but with night vision it stands out because it reflect NIR light differently. After painting I cleaned the lenses. I thought all of them were very scratched but only the magnifying glass was scratched. I Used car polish compound and resin polish to remove the scratches and make it usable again. After assembly I used paracord to make a new cord for it. I could have gone with something fancy with complex knots etc. but I decided to make just a simple cord, similar to what it used to have back in the day. Thank you for watching! The following Amazon links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ SOME OF MY TOOLS: BLACK GLOVES: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 CAR POLISH COMPOUND: https://amzn.to/2l8VHXp RESIN POLISH: https://amzn.to/2jOg0sW CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 DIAMOND BITS: https://amzn.to/2X7ruXU ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 ELECTRONICS SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/3g0dGqO VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 91 - I Restored & Repaired This Rare Multiplayer Duel Console - Retro Game Restoration

20 juillet 2020

Go to https://BuyRaycon.com/oddtinkering for 15% off your order! This console restoration was brought to you by Raycon. In this video I restore a rare Bandai Electronics FL Gun Professional console. The console as you can see on the video the console is beige even on the box and my de-yellowing method had almost no effect, so I'm sure this was the original color. However it was still unusable because the battery terminal were corroded so badly. The corrosion had even broken one of the terminals. I didn't even bother to test it before opening it up because the terminals were too corroded to conduct the electricity anyways. To disassemble the console I had to desolder the battery terminals. One of the terminal was so badly corroded it was hard to desolder. The oxide layer was holding the wire and I had to pull really hard to get it out of the oxide while heating the non-oxidized solder on the inside. Once everything was taken apart I was able to test the device with external power source. Luckily it worked despite the board having some tacky substance on it. I cleaned the board by blowing off loose dirt and then I washed it with isopropyl alcohol. The back label was peeled off because it didn't look like it would survive washing and deyellowing process. I don't do that with Gameboys because I know the labels used on those wont be damaged. The label was also damaged and yellowed so I recreated it in photoshop and my good friend was able to print me a new label. Huge thank you for watching the video. I have added some link bellow to some of the tools and gear needed. The links are an easy and free way to support my work. They are affiliate links and after you go to amazon through one of those links and buy anything (not only the product I've linked) I get a small commision. Also I have link to my Instagram account and to my t-shirts, which are all designed by me. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO MAGNETIZERr: https://amzn.to/2CnKuLP 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (IPA) https://amzn.to/3hbQFRM HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA MY FILMING GEAR: MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn MICROPHONE: https://amzn.to/2I80iDz VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha GOPRO: https://amzn.to/2U3eqU3 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- If you came all the way down here, maybe consider subscribing or leaving a like!

Épisode 92 - I Restored and Upgraded This $2 Junk Original Gameboy - Console Restoration & Repair

27 juillet 2020

I've been wanting to modify the original Nintendo Gameboy so I decided to restore and repair one and do the modifications while I'm at it. The original Gameboy aka DMG-01 was released in North America 31th July 1989, few days shy of 31 years! HTe modification I will add to this console is a backlight and a bivert chip. Bivert chip inverts the colors. For some reason that gives better contrast for the screen, I'll also invert the colors again to get normal colors instead of inverted colors. The Gameboy got power but there was no image or sound. This was not very promising. Usually no power is better because then the issue is most likely simple to solve beucause that is often caused by bad contact somewhere. This could mean the board or the screen is broken. After disassembly the plastic parts were cleaned. And yellowed parts were de-yellowed in my solarium. Tutorial for the process can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s I cleaned the board. I concentrated especially on the power switch and the battery contacts, which were the point I was hoping to have bad contact. I that was not the case I'd have to go systematically go through the whole board to find the damaged area. The battery terminals were removed and put into rust remover. After that they were nickel plated. The blue residue on the terminals is oxidized copper this tells me the nickel plating was already damaged. My tutorial for nickel plating can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ& After the board was cleaned it worked so the issue was just a contact issue which is very typical for these. However the sound was not working. I tested the speaker and the volume wheel. They were both fine. This could again mean the board is somehow damaged causing the issue. Then I realized the headphone jack has a switch that turn the speakers off when the headphones are plugged in. And what do you know. The headphone jack was working. I used a screwdriver to scratch the oxidized metal between two pieces of metal in the switch to get them good contact again. And now also the audio was working. Now that everything as fixed I wanted to install the mod kit. I peeled off the back polarizer from the screen. I cleaned any glue residues from the screen with isopropyl alcohol. Then I inserted the backlight panel behind the screen. Between the screen and the led panel. Some people like to desolder the whole screen for better access but as you can see the installation can be done without it if you are careful with the ribbon cables. To install the chip I needed to lift 2 legs from the screen connector. The chip is mounted on this PCB board which makes the installation much easier. The rest of the needed contacts (except ground) have holes over the corresponding contacts on the board to make soldering easy. Because the chip inverts the colors the polarizer must be turned 90 degrees I get this white/blue tone instead of the normal green/black. There are other colors also available but I like this one. Thanks for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp REPLACEMENT GLASS: https://amzn.to/30M1Vh4 RUBBER PADS: https://amzn.to/32YNetV BACKLIGHT KIT: https://amzn.to/32Y47Vj RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX NICKEL ANODE: https://amzn.to/2ro0cAo POWER SOURCE: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 93 - Antique Jet Flame Lighter Restoration

8 août 2020

I got my hands on this old Beattie jet lighter. It was specifically designed for pipe smoking. It has a second wick in horizontal pipe which creates pressure and a jet flame when heated. These are rare and collectible lighters. After the disassembly I cleaned the parts well and used rust remover to get rid of any oxidation. Then the parts were polished with metal polish compound and a buffing wheel. Next the parts were plated using an electroless plating method which has several advantages over electroplating but the process is much more complicated and more expensive. But also once you have working solution it's quite easy to use. I can't reveal the recipe for the solution but I added a link to similar solution bellow. The manufacturers have usually very good instructions that are specific for their products. Link to the: electroless nickel plating solution https://guernsey.desertcart.com/products/51873494-nickel-star-reductor-1000-ml-250-ml-for-currentless-nickel-plating A free way to support my channel is access amazon/ebay to do your regular shopping through these links. I will get a small fee from each product bought on amazon after clicking these links, whether it was the linked product or a different one. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Tools used in this video : POLISHING KIT: https://amzn.to/31w983l RUST REMOVER: https://www.mc-51thebestrustremover.com/?ref=YbUD-0E4NKfV0qOk ZIPPO FLINT: https://amzn.to/2us5T2o Other tools: ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6 PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu 2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 95 - I Restored The Yellowest Sega Saturn Controller

6 septembre 2020

In this episode I will restore the yellowed Sega Saturn controller which was seen in the last episode. The controller was even more yellow than the console. It's actually one of the most yellowed items I've restored. I think the previous DMG Gameboy was quite close and The Sega Saturn was probably the most yellowed item I've ever seen. I feel controller is very simple compared to the Playstation controller, even though the original controller is not quite as advanced as the DualShocks I've restored on this channel. Just a few screws holding the case closed. On the inside eveerything seems fine, although there is a little corrosion. Old tech can handle much more corrosion but I still wanted to clean that away with isoropyl alcohol. To remove the yellowing I used hydrogen peroxide and UV lights. I 've made a video explaining it better. Link to it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s&t In addition to the hydrogen peroxide method, I used just UV light on the plug because I cant submerge it. but that took a lot longer. Why didn't I use same method for everything? Because the plug wasn't quite as yellow and it still took over a week and because it is much smaller so I can concentrate more UV light to the same surface area and I can place the lights closer. Lets say the shell has 10 times larger surface area. I'd need at least 10 times more UV-lights to do it even at that pace. And I used almost the same ammount of lights that I use in the hydrogen peroxide process. Thanks for watching my video! Don't forget to subscribe for future content. The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX POWER SOURCE: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 97 - Restoration of Trashed Batmobile from Batman (1989)

12 octobre 2020

I received this Batmobile from based on the Tim Burton's Batman movie. It was basically trash, nothing worked and there was a lot of corrosion and other damage. Many parts were broken and the car wasn't even connected to the (previously) wired controller anymore. Mary of the screws were damaged or missing which could mean somebody tried to fix it but gave up. I disassembled everything to assess the damage first. Nothing was working. I started by testing the motor. With multimeter I figured out the coil inside the motor is intact and noticed the axle doesn't spin freely like it should, so I used a special lubrication meant for electronics which got the axle loose and the motor started working again. For the controller I needed to remake some of the contacts and re-plate the rest of them. I used a tool which I designed for the purpose to create that dimple which you usually see at the in negative battery terminal for AA or AAA type batteries. I used 0.2 mm thick brass plate for the job. I used tape to trace the correct shape for each part and then just left some extra brass in the damaged areas. These parts were cut out from brass with scissors because the plate is so soft and thin. Then the parts were plated using electroplating method explained here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ The missing wire was made from old earphones because it just happened to be perfect for the job. everything was soldered back together and assembled. Now the batmobile works perfectly. Thanks for watching my video! Don't forget to subscribe for future content. The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Electronics lubricative: https://amzn.to/3dmlWR3 Soldering station: https://amzn.to/36XKz5q Lab power source: https://amzn.to/36TriSV --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 98 - I Restored This Yellowed Junk Nintendo 64 - Retro N64 Console Restoration

26 octobre 2020

In this episode I will restore this Nintedo 64 (N64) which is very yellowed and doesn't show any picture on the TV. This model was originally transparent blue/white but now it's more transparen green/yellow. There seems to be also some damage from water or other liquid. To open the console, I need a special tool usually called game bit. Such screws can be found in many Nintendo consoles. The N64 has a ton of different types of screws so it's especially important to make sure I know where they go once I'm putting it back together. I use an ice cube tray for this purpose as usual. I also marked different screws with different colors in the video. However screws marked with same color in different parts of the video are NOT similar. After all the plastic parts were disassembled from around the electronics. I cleaned the plastic and used method called retrobrighting to remove the yellowing from the plastic. Tutorial to retrobrighting here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s&t Next it was time to figure out why I had no image in my TV. With older consoles not having a picture is usually much better sign than the device not powering on because I know the board is not completely fried. Both cases could still be result of major damage but from my experience that is often just a result of lack of connection at some point. If something had, shorted the console would probably not even turn on. In this case I found there to be damage dirt under the game port which could affect the console, but most likely there was a cold solder joint, which means the poer for my AV cable was not connected. I resoldered all the joints and the console started working. Often it can be enough just to melt the old solder and it's not even needed to add any new solder. Thanks for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: GAMEBIT TOOL: https://amzn.to/37HtLQE SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: https://amzn.to/34Po8dX POWER SOURCE: https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 99 - I Restored Yellowed Nintendo 64 Controller with Broken Joystick - Console Restoration

28 octobre 2020

Install Raid for Free ✅ IOS: https://clik.cc/qTtvQ ✅ ANDROID: https://clik.cc/KALA6 ✅ PC: https://clik.cc/lsHG2 and get a special starter pack ? Available only for the next 30 days! In this video I will restore this Nintendo 64 controller for my restored N64. The controller is badly yellowed and very dirty from years of use. The joystick is badly damaged which makes it impossible to play with it. Unlike the console itself, the controller is very easy to open and it can be done with regular screw driver. However I find it one of the most annoying ones to put back together. The 2 screws inside the connection port under the console can sometimes be hard to put back in. To open the joystick assembly you need to open the screw and press the case back closed like there was still a screw and the you pry open the two plastic clip holding it together. NOTE: I recommend buying this or similar product to replace the whole assembly: https://amzn.to/34zII5a However, I decided to try to repair the loose stick. I figured out what was worn down and added some epoxy putty and sanded everything down as many times as needed to make it fit. Most likely it's not going to be ready after applying the epoxy once but you might need several tries. On the positive side, if you like this type of hobby it's going to be much cheaper to try to fix it with putty before deciding to replace the whole joystick. Before applying the putty you need to clean the surfaces and you might also want to scratch them up with sand paper to get better grip for the epoxy. The shell was first washed with soapy water and used hydrogen peroxide and UV-light like in this tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s Finally I used isopropyl alcohol to clean the board and electronics and put everything back together. Thanks for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Brand new joystick: https://amzn.to/34zII5a Epoxy putty: https://amzn.to/2Tuaw4P Mini sander: https://amzn.to/37KveWv Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Power source (for leds): https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 100 - Antique Anvil Restoration & Upgrade

25 novembre 2020

I will restore this small jewelers's anvil. It's quite rusty and the paint is coming off. It's also very small but it would be still nice to be able to hit it a bit harder if needed without the anvil moving or me having to bolt it to the table. I decided to solve the problem bu making a stylish base for it. Inside the base I will hide almost 3kg of steel to add some weight to the anvil still keeping it movable and compact. This time I decided to try a new method of laser cleaning. I have linked the company's page bellow. Laser cleaning device uses a laser that burns everything from rust to paint and grease from tho surface of the metal. It's very fast and sensitive method of removing rust. I'm really excited to experiment more with the technology in the future. Thank you for watching! The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Laser cleaner: https://laser.w2m.fi/laser-cleaning/?lang=en Some of my tools: Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Chuck norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2 Corddless drill: https://amzn.to/2Wois77 Electronics screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 101 - Restoring Broken Formula Racing Game - Retro Game Restoration

18 décembre 2020

I bought this retro Formula racing game for restoration. It's called Grand Prix and it was made by CGL. The LCD screen badly damaged and one of the levers has been broken. I noticed the color of the console is a bit different from the usual yellowing in the items I restore. It looks almost like there is a green tint to it so I was expecting it to stay the same color in the hydrogen peroxide bath. The process is called retrobright and it removes the yellowing and when done correctly it won't change the original color. If the original color under the yellowing has faded it will stay faded. So it should not affect the pigment in the plastic but only bromide, the substance that causes the plastic to yellow. I had to look for the spare screen for a long time because that type of damage is unrepairable and they don't make new screen anymore. Luckily I found somebody who had a broken device with functional screen and they were willing to sell it for me. Since he also had the switches I also bought those from him even though I think I could have fixed the broken parts as well. After changing the screen and one of the switches I had to replace the battery contacts. The original ones were in very bad condition and some of them were broken. I took 0.2 mm thick sheet of brass and pressed the dimples to the metal with a special tool that I designed just for the purpose. The brass is so thin I could cut it with scissors. I was very similar to cut as as thick crafting paper, so I still could get the wanted shapes easily. The brass was nickel plated to protect if from oxidation in the future. The original contacts were plated as well but some acidic solution had leaked from the batteries, which had dissolved the nickel. My nickel plating tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ& After assembly I noticed the other switch was broken as well so I had to replace that as well. The process was exactly like the first one so I didn't show it that much. The game works perfectly now and it's actually pretty fun to play. I enjoy this type of game a lot, considering how simple it is. And this game has bearable sounds unlike most of these old handheld gaming consoles. Thanks for watching! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Mini heatgun / solder iron https://amzn.to/3h2LkNz Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Power source (for leds): https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 102 - I restored this $7 Junk Playstation 2 Slim - Retro Console Restoration & Repair

7 janvier 2021

In this episode I restore a Playstation 2 (PS2) slim which I got for $7 as part of a junk lot of consoles. Low end price for working device is typically around $50. Black consoles can be cheaper because there are more of them available. As a bonus I got a free game, DBZ Budokai Tenkaichi, it's quite common game and even in good condition not very valuable. But it's a nice addition to my collection, here is a link to my video of repairing the disc: https://youtu.be/TNV7mDfWuWI I started the restoration by testing the console. I was able to power it on. I think it wasn't supposed to work but the descriptions for these consoles are quite often inaccurate. However it was not reading games. After opening the console I tried to see if I could repair the disc drive. The Playstation 2 disc drive is known for breaking quite easily. The laser just stops working. I decided to replace the whole disc drive. Only the laser part can also be changed. After replacing the laser I still had to do a little adjusting on the screws I show on the video. After replacing the drive I continued to disassemble the console. I cleaned everything with compressed air, soapy water and isopropyl alcohol and removed a little yellowing with UV-light and hydrogen peroxide. Tutorial to the process here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s& The original model sticker was in bad condition so I copied it in photoshop and printed a new one. Thanks for watching! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Replacement disc drive: https://amzn.to/2LahwDd Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Soldering iron https://amzn.to/3h2LkNz Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Power source (for leds): https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 103 - Restoring a pair of Junk DualShock 2 Controllers for my Playstation 2 - Retro Console Restoration

27 janvier 2021

After restoring a white Playstation 2 I thought I need a pair of white controller to go along with so why not restore myself a pair. I found a pair as part of a junk lot. I've restored few other models of the DualShock controllers. This one looks quite similar on the ouside but the inside is all new although it has very similar structure. Immediately I noticed one of the controllers was only had a broken thumb stick and the other would power on ( the light turns on) but none of the buttons worked. After opening the second controller I could see it was assembled wrong. The plastic sheet that contains the circuits for the buttons was not in it's place but it was under the main board so they circuits did not connect. I did not find out why the controller was originally opened. Also one of the wires to the vibration motor needed to be re-soldered, maybe the previous owner tried to fix that and though they had broken the controller... As usual I washed the parts with Mr. Ducktor and since the plastic was yellowed, I put it in the retrobrighting bath. Tutorial for the process can be found here: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s After de-yellowing, I tested the cables for both controllers. It can be done easily by checking that each pin in the controllers plug connects to one of the wires at the other end. Everything seemed to be working and I was not able to find any major damage. So there was not much necessary need for further repairs. However the joysticks for the controllers get loose over time and the second controller felt like it was already quite loose so I decided to replace the joysticks while I had the controller open. Usually the left joystick is the one that need replacing because it's used more often used. For the first controller I put in a fresh pair of thumb sticks. Thanks for watching! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Replacement analog stick (electrical part): https://amzn.to/2M8PBnO Replacement thumb stick: https://amzn.to/2Ny5SD0 Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Soldering iron https://amzn.to/3h2LkNz Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Power source (for leds): https://amzn.to/35zDBzT --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 104 - Restoring Old Rusty Table Fan with Laser Cleaning

20 février 2021

In this episode I will restore this rusty vintage fan. The fan has lots of rust and all of the wiring needs to be replaced. This project was lot of work because there were so many phases in the work. After disassembly I started by removing the rust and paint with Laser Cleaner. The device wan loaned to me by W2M (https://w2m.fi/?lang=en). Here is their demo video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkTA7xWR0XI&t=182s&ab_channel=W2MLaser). For the safety guard I used electrolysis for which I've made this tutorial: https://youtu.be/SYMsGTKFaas For the painted parts I used filler and filler base coat. The color is blue metallic car paint, and it was coated with 2K clear coat to protect the surface. To remake the damaged badge prints I used heat transfer. Should I make a detailed tutorial of the process for my second channel? I printed the wanted image on a transfer paper which is linked in the tools section. It normally requires a heat press, but since I don't have one I only used normal oven and used clamps to generate the needed pressure. I also used silicone pad to make the pressure more even in case my sheets of plywood were not even enough. I also replaced all the wiring vintage style braided wire was used for the part that had similar wire and the rest of the wire was just plain plastic wire like it originally was. I hope you enjoy the video as much as I enjoyed making it. Thanks for watching! The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Laser cleaner: https://laser.w2m.fi/laser-cleaning/?lang=en Some of my tools: Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Transfer paper: https://amzn.to/3k8iflm Multi-purpose Lubricant: https://amzn.to/3dztAK7 Metal polishing kit: https://amzn.to/2ZxTDJv Soldering Iron:https://amzn.to/3qH2ogq --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 105 - I Restored This Destroyed Gameboy Advance SP - Retro Nintendo Console Restoration

11 mars 2021

In this video I will restore a Gameboy Advance SP. by Nintendo. The console is broken in half and it won't charge. Also the screen cable has been damaged and the screen need to be replaced. Gameboy Advance SP was finally the Gameboy everybody had been waiting for, it had illuminated color screen and battery. The screen was a huge upgrade from to the Gameboy advance which always needed good lighting to play it. Get your own GBA here (not the one on the video): https://amzn.to/3bF0Ezb To open the console I needed my screwdriver set. I will link it bellow. Like the other Gameboy consoles this need a tri wing (aka Y-tip) screw driver to open. the shell. On the inside a small phillips screw driver is needed. The console doesn't have many parts so it's easy to dissasemble, however if the screen is undamaged you need to be very careful with the orange ribbon cable. When I connected the charging cable it wouldn't charge. Usually this is because the charging port is dirty and/or corroded and cleaning it usually removes the problem. Another issue can be a completely dead battery. If you remove a battery from working device you will notice the console does the same thing, the light turns on for a second and turns off. If the light doesn't even flash, you know the issue is not in the battery. In rare cases the issue could also be a damaged mother board which could be much harder to repair. The screen was also broken. In theory the cable could be replaced, at leas with micro soldering, but new reproduction and original screens are easily available so usually it's not worth spending hours on trying to solder it. The shell was destroyed so I bought a replacement shell. The replacement shell have everything including the lens, buttons and new screws, except the hinges. But they come with caps that cover the actual hinges. New hinges are available but it doesn't always feel like the original hinges so I will use the old ones if they still work. Thanks for watching! If you'd like to see more similar videos consider subscribing so you won't miss them. The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-shirts here: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO 99.9% ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (IPA): https://amzn.to/30wgZQc TWEEZER SET: https://amzn.to/3rQSbi5 NEW SCREEN: https://amzn.to/3l6syqN REPLACEMENT SHELL: https://amzn.to/3tbK5k4 REPLACEMENT HINGES: https://amzn.to/3viCz8O --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 106 - Restoring RARE Casio Heli-Battle Console - Retro Game Restoration

27 mars 2021

Install Raid for Free ✅ IOS: https://clik.cc/Sv9gV ✅ ANDROID: https://clik.cc/2f8ty ✅ PC: https://clik.cc/Jso3R and get a special starter pack ?Available only for the next 30 days! In this video I restore rare Casio Heli-Battle Handheld console. In 1980's Casio better known for their calculators and watches made also gaming consoles such as this Heli-Battle game. These days, they go for high prices on Ebay if they are in good condition. This is a very basic restoration. AS you can see sometimes it's very useful to remove desolder parts like I did. Because I was able to remove the back of the shell completely and the speaker with the housing it was much more easier to detach the speaker and the battery contacts. But it's always important to make sure you can actually solder the parts back in. Sometimes a part can be so hard to solder back that you want to avoid desoldering it at all costs. After the console was disassembled I cleaned the parts with soapy water. I had also looked online that the console should be clearly lighter color so I decided to give it the deyellowing treatment. The console was never gray or white like the Gameboy or some other consoles so it won't turn like that in this process. All colors of plastic Yellow but based on my experience besides gray and white, blue and green seem to be usually visibly most discolored plastics, also I've seen pink turn brown many times. Few times I've also seen black turn to sort of dark green color. This process will work to restore all of those colors, however if the original color in the plastic has faded this method won't fix that, it only removes the yellow/brown discoloration. Here is my tutorial for the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdWRsjnVD3s I cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol. The battery contacts were nickel plated again to prevent the corrosion from reoccurring. I also replaced one of the wires going to the battery contacts. Usually negative wire is black and positive is red, like you can see on the speaker. So I know the wire has been replaced by someone at some point. Now it looks like more professional and someone else who might repair the console ion the future will not mix the wires up as easily. During the assembly also made new glue for the lens from double sided tape. This is a great way to reattach parts that need custom shaped pieces of tape. Thanks for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Prying tools:https://amzn.to/3dbLxMX Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Power source (for leds): https://amzn.to/35zDBzT Wire stripping tool: https://amzn.to/3u10E2F Soldering station: https://amzn.to/3cue55u --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr

Épisode 107 - Restoring Giant Lego Stormtrooper - A Star Wars Restoration

14 avril 2021

How to restore broken and yellowed Lego Star Wars stormtrooper with retrobrighting This stormtrooper toy is actually an alarm clock but I think it's cooler as just a collectible piece rather than an actual alarm clock. The item is very yellowed and the clock doesn't work. I start out bu disassembling. The head it on very tight but it's just pulled off and I had to trust it won't break. One of the screws was stuck and almost completely stripped by previous owner. I tried oil, rubberband and the other usual trick but I had to drill it out. After dissassebly the parts were washed. and then put into my new retrobrighting box. (Link to the build video for the box will be updated here as soon as it's ready and uploaded). With the new box it's easier to use only the needed ammount of hydrogen peroxide and I can control the temperature which can speed up the process a lot. The solution is reusable but it does evaporate so I want to minimize that. After few hours in the solution the process was done. Next it was time to figure out why the electronics were not working. It's always a little hard to try to figure out where the issue is if you don't have another device to compare with. This time I could find a broken trace on the main board. Which probably was the issue. I cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol and I created a solder bridge to fix the trace. To do that I had to reveal some of the metal inside the board to have a surface for the solder to attach to. After I was done I checked that now the trace was conducting electricity. The rusty screws and oxidized battery contacts were cleaned with vinegar and nickel plated to protect them in the future. My tutorial can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3DCexCLoGQ But there was a n issue. The clock seemed to work but only one of the buttons worked. I started looking what could cause them not to work and I quickly realized I had not cleaned the pads for the buttons. I checked them and as I had thought they had some oxidation on them which was preventing the contact. I cleaned the pads with isopropyl alcohol and put everything back together. Thanks for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Prying tools:https://amzn.to/3dbLxMX Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Power source (for leds): https://amzn.to/35zDBzT Precicion drill: https://amzn.to/3tjaTPL Drill stand: https://amzn.to/3v3C5CX Wire stripping tool: https://amzn.to/3u10E2F Soldering station: https://amzn.to/3cue55u --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #asmr #gaming

Épisode 108 - Junk GameCube Restoration - Nintendo Console Repair

27 avril 2021

I will restore this this Nintendo GameCube Console which won't work and is dirty and yellowed to brand new condition. Nintendo released GameCube released nearly 20 years ago to compete with Playstation 2 and Xbox. My new Retrobrighting box video for removing yellowing: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU The GameCube starts but the disc won't spin, it's usually not an issue with the motor itself but the laser just doesn't recognize the disc. This can usually be fixed by adjusting the laser as I do in the video, or by replacing the laser if adjusting won't help. The laser gets old and over time it will go bad like this. Adjusting the laser will give it more using time but after adjusting it couple of times it will need to be replaced. When replacing the laser it make sure to turn the screw back to around 500 ohms so it will last longer. After I had fixed the disc reading issue. I continued with the disassembly. The GameCube has way too many screws holding everything in place as you can see.but overall it's very easy to disassemble. I cleaned the parts with soapy water and then used my new retrobrighting box to remove yellowing from the front plate. Also the acrylic circle on top of the console was badly scratched. I used polishing compound to rub it for several minutes and it turn out looking brand new. I also decided to replace the battery which will keep the time and date. You can buy CR 2032 batteries which have those legs but would have had to order it so I decided to show you how to do it without those or a spot welding machine. You can just rip off the legs from the old battery and solder them on the regular battery. You might want to scratch the surface of the battery so the solder will have something to grip on to. Thank you for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Gamebit screwdriver: https://amzn.to/3dRaxe8 Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Polishing compound: https://amzn.to/3noC89E Soldering station: https://amzn.to/3cue55u Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr

Épisode 110 - Rare Pistol Lighter Restoration - IMCO 6900

23 mai 2021

Restoration of rusty gun shaped pistol lighter. I will restore this cool looking cigarette pistol lighter and make it work again. Huge thanks to W2M industries for always loaning me their laser cleaner, if you are interested in buying one you can contact them from: https://w2m.fi/?lang=en ABOUT THE LIGHTER: This lighter was manufactured by austrian manufacturer IMCO. It was made around the 1960's. The model of the lighter is 6900 "gunlite". This is not a firearm but the design is inspired by a small pistol. I bought this lighter from ebay for $10 which may seem a lot but these sell for much higher prices in good condition because they are very collectable and the company eventually stopped manufacturing lighter in 2012 and the brand was aquired by Japanese company Windmill. ABOUT THE RESTORATION: The disassembly is quite simple. Only the wheel and other parts held in place by the pin that goes through it need a little effort to remove. I used a precision drill to remove the pin. There is only one screw and the other parts just snap on in this great design. I used a laser cleaning machine to remove the rust. It uses a high power laser to burn the rust, paint and other dirt off the surface without damaging the metal like many other methods. Only downside is these devices are more expensive than e.g. a sandblaster. Next I polished the metal by sanding from 400 grits up to 2000 grits and polished it with metal polish compound. The polished metal was cleaned. The pieces were put into an acid activation bath for few minutes. This allows the metal to be plated in the plating solution. Next the parts were put into an electroless plating bath which plates the parts with nickel to protect them from rusting in the future. Electroless plating has number of advantages over electroplating which uses electricity to force the plating. These include more even plating even from inside of the parts. The downside it that it's more complicated and expensive method so it need much more understanding of the chemistry to have a robust plating system. Also the handles were polished with plastic polishing compound. The lighter was then assembled and the drilled pin was replaced. I hope you enjoy the video as much as I enjoyed making it. Thanks for watching! The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Laser cleaner: https://laser.w2m.fi/laser-cleaning/?lang=en Some of my tools: Precision drill: https://amzn.to/3fHIQnA Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Multi-purpose Lubricant: https://amzn.to/3dztAK7 Metal polishing kit: https://amzn.to/2ZxTDJv --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #lighter

Épisode 111 - Restoring Broken GoPro Hero 3+ a Subscriber Sent Me - Action Camera Restoration

12 juin 2021

Go to https://nordvpn.com/oddtinkering or use code oddtinkering to get a 2-year plan with a huge discount! This GoPro was sent to me to be restored and repaired by a subscriber who didn't have any use for it. The camera was released by GoPro on 2012. The camera has some visual damage, the USB port is damaged and the lens has some scratches. When I tested it it wouldn't stay on but it would just keep turning on and off after few seconds. There is also some dust on the sensor which causes dark spots on the video and pictures. The GoPro was disassembled. And I noticed one of the connectors had gone loose. Probably after falling or lot of vibration. After putting the connector back the camera worked normally. Now I could see what the image was like. There were some dots caused by dust particles on the sensor. I took the sensor off and cleaned it gently with a dry q-tip. Next I repainted the front cover. I started with sanding and filling all dents with filler. Next it was coated with plastic primer to ensure teh paints stays on. I also remade the logo with a water transfer image that I printed out. Finally everything was clear coated to protect it further. I polished the lens and LCD screen to remove scratches. Acrylic polishing compound was used for the screen and glass polish compound was used for the lens. I also used a special glass polishing pad because glass is very hard and polishing it by hand would take a long time. Thank you for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Electronic screw driver: https://amzn.to/3vd62Qs Water transfer paper: https://amzn.to/2U62hQ9 Polishing compound (acrylic): https://amzn.to/3noC89E Polishing compound (glass): https://amzn.to/3gew3L0 Glass polishing pad kit: https://amzn.to/3ghVRWz Soldering station (with heat gun): https://amzn.to/3cue55u USB port: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263158197314 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 112 - Restoration & Repair of Xbox 360 with Red Ring of Death

6 juillet 2021

Restoring and repairing Xbox 360 with red ring of death and stuck disc drive. I got this Xbox as part of broken console lot from Ebay with some Playstations. I started by checking the error code the console gives. Mine is 1023, which is almost always related to a cold solder in CPU or GPU. The disc drive is also not working. I can hear it trying to open but I doesn't. To repair the red ring of death I used a heat gun. My heat gun is part of a soldering station but you can use a normal one also. Mine was set up to 400 degrees Celsius. The idea is to heat up the CPU and GPU until the solders underneath melt. The chips can be damaged by heat also so it's important to move the heat gun around. The board is pretty much ruined and not if you can't fix it, so you are not losing anything if you try this and fail. After the initial warm up I added flux which will help the reflow of the solder joints. During heating adding the flux you don't want to touch anything on the board because the solder should start melting and your parts can come off of the board and it can be very hard or impossible to put them back. After heating the CPU and GPU for a while I let the beard cool down before I touch it. Now the board is hopefully working. if not you can try again if you want. I could hear that the disc drive was trying to open so I figured it was probably just filled with dust. I tested it and the motor which spins the disc didn't move up and down as it should. This prevented the drive from opening. I removed the covers from the drive and cleaned it. After cleaning the disc drive was working well. Thank you for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering Get your own: Xbox 360: https://amzn.to/36h8xay Red Dead Redemption: https://amzn.to/3hFcNFU SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Soldering station: https://amzn.to/3cue55u Prying tools: https://amzn.to/3AzUhro --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #xbox

Épisode 113 - Yellowed Xbox 360 Controller Restoration - Gaming Console Repair

1 août 2021

Restoring & repairing Xbox 360 controller that won't turn on and that is yellowed. I bought this controller as junk from Ebay. I started the restoration with disassembly. The shell is closed with safety torx screws, which means normal torx bit won't fir them. To remove the trigger buttons I need to bend the plastic so I can't recommend that unless it is necessary, even though the plastic is very well bending. I also removed the sticker with isopropyl alcohol so I can reapply it once I'm finished. After disassembly I cleaned the parts and put the yellowed plastic in the retrobrighting box I made on my other channel. Link to the video: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU I used hydrogen peroxide UV-light and heat to remove the yellowing from the plastic. To open the battery pack I used some plastic tools, lots of force and patience. The pack is not meant to be opened but it can be done carefully without breaking anything. Once pack was opened I cleaned the battery contacts with isopropyl alcohol. Lastly the two halves were glued back together. Thank you for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set with safety torx: https://amzn.to/3rITe4i Plastic tool kit: https://amzn.to/2TLL9z7 Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #nintendo #gaming #asmr

Épisode 114 - Vintage Mining Lantern and Battery Restoration

16 septembre 2021

I restored this vintage mining lantern from East Germany, DDR. It's very rusty and the battery is completely dead. I bought this awesome looking lantern couple months ago from a flea market. I started with disassembly. Interestingly the battery had leaked inside of the lantern but none of the liquid seemed to come out which was an excellent sign. all the seals were in good condition despite of the rust on the body. I used laser cleaning device from W2M laser. They lend me one of their devices whenever I need one. You can find more info about them from here: https://laser.w2m.fi/?lang=en The laser will burn old paint and rust and leave clean surface to be painted or welded etc. I fixed most of the dents and filled pitting from rust with filler. Then I applied base coat, and either red or black paint and finished with automotive 2K clear coat. 2K clear coat will ensure the paint will last a lifetime. A lot of times 1K paint of clear coat will not last in use or if you spill oil or gasoline on it . All the small bits were blacked with gun blue and oiled to make sure they won't rust immediately. I re-used the old wires. they were on decent condition and most importantly they were made to fit and seal the battery compartment so the liquid won't leak to the top part of the lantern when it's turned upside down. I hope you enjoy the video as much as I enjoyed making it. Thanks for watching! The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Laser cleaner: https://laser.w2m.fi/laser-cleaning/?lang=en Some of my tools: Multi-purpose Lubricant: https://amzn.to/3dztAK7 Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Gun Blue: https://amzn.to/3hD5kYH My main camera: https://amzn.to/3kklOqJ Main lens: https://amzn.to/397kkJX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #lantern #ASMR

Épisode 115 - Junk PSP Restoration - Sony Playstation Portable 1000

9 octobre 2021

Sony (PSP) Playstation Portable 1000 Restoration. In this video I will restore and repair the first version of Sony PSP. The console came to me as part of lot of old consoles. It's dirty, the buttons are yellowed, it makes a horrible noise when I try to play a game and the circle button need to be pressed really hard. Grid Frame Studio: https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=1632954&u=2869871&m=101889&urllink=&afftrack= If you are interested in buying some the product, you get a discount with code JSOT15 To remove the yellowing I use a technique called retrobrighting. It uses UV-lights and Hydrogen peroxide to remove yellowing from plastic. Here is my video about the retrobrighting: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s Here is a video to how to build the box: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU To fix the noise I used oil to lubricate the gear that was making the noise. Oil is safe for electronics. However because the laser lens is near the gear you need to be careful because oil on the lens will probably cause it not to red the UMD properly Thank you for watching my video! The links to are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Electronic screw driver: https://amzn.to/3vd62Qs Mini Compressor: https://amzn.to/2YGiSfL Plastic tool kit: https://amzn.to/2TLL9z7 Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #nintendo #gaming #asmr

Épisode 116 - I Restored This Yellowed Joystick and Play New Games with it - Retro Gaming Restoration

8 novembre 2021

Register to World of Tanks now at: https://tanks.ly/3BCdurr use the code TANKMANIA and join the Battle! In this episode I restore a yellowed retro joystick. The model is QuickShot Python 5. The controller is yellowed and even though it was sold as working to me on ebay, it turned out to be drifting to right. I started with opening the controller and noticed I need to desolder the the wires to get all the pieces apart. After desoldering I cleaned the parts in watery soap and put them into my retrobrighting box to remove the yellowing. Here is my tutorial to build it: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU Here is my tutorial about the retrobrighting process: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s I cleaned the board with isopropyl alcohol. However I did not remove the rubber pads for the buttons. This was because those can be very fragile and it would be extremely hard to find a replacement. But as you can see in the end, I still had to remove them and clean the contacts for the buttons. To connect the joystick to a modern PC with new Windows such as Windows 10, you need a special adapter. I used this Rockfire adapter for gameport to USB (https://amzn.to/3wqtN9X). I have Windows 10 Home version 20H2, in this video in case someone has issues with this method. Just a Gameport to USB cable doesn't usually work. Thank you for watching! --------------------------------------------------------------------- You can find my new playstation and ducktor inspired T-shirts here: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my new Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Gameport to USB adapter: https://amzn.to/3wqtN9X Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Plastic tool kit: https://amzn.to/2TLL9z7 Hydrogen Peroxide: https://amzn.to/3EYkfWC UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA MY FILMING GEAR: My main camera: https://amzn.to/3kklOqJ Main lens: https://amzn.to/397kkJX Video lights: https://amzn.to/2ZXckK5 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 117 - Large Lighter restoration with 24 Karat gold plating

21 novembre 2021

The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl.sh/oddtinkering09211 ---- In this episode I will restore this Large lighter made in occupied Japan by Reliance. The lighter is very oxidized and in need of a restoration. I also thought it looked worthy of gold plating so I wanted to practice that skjill on it. I used laser cleaner loaned to me by W2M to clean up the dirty and oxidized surfaces. You can find more about their lasers from here: https://w2m.fi/?lang=en After cleaning the parts were polished and then decreased with acetone. This will allow me to get nice shiny plating on the parts. I used an electroless nickel plating method. I prefer it over electroplating as it usually gives better results and plated parts evenly on the inside as well. electroplating can have issues were plating is much thicker is some areas and some areas are hard to plate because current doesn't flow through all the areas of the metal in the same way. But in the end both methods have their own advantages. If you are a beginner in metal plating I recommend checking out my electroplating tutorial. Electroplatin is by far the easiest method fo r a beginner. Link to the tutorial: https://youtu.be/O3DCexCLoGQ Once the parts were nickel plated I gold plated it with electroplating method called brush plating were you just rub the electrolyte on the surface of the item and gold will appear on the surface. I also needed to make a new gasket to replace the old one. I just took thick gasket paper and used hole punches to make a ring of the correct size. I hope you enjoy the video as much as I enjoyed making it. Thanks for watching! The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Laser cleaner: https://laser.w2m.fi/laser-cleaning/?lang=en Some of my tools: Gold plating kit: https://amzn.to/2ZcjGcI Acetone: https://amzn.to/3FyUWuG Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Hollow punch set: https://amzn.to/3czZjcv My main camera: https://amzn.to/3kklOqJ Main lens: https://amzn.to/397kkJX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #lighter #ASMR

Épisode 118 - I Restored This Yellowed & Broken SNES - Retro Console Restoration

19 décembre 2021

I will restore this broken and yellowed Super Nintedndo Entertainment System (SNES). This moden is the NTSC model for North America. The console is dirty, yellowed and won't play games. I started with disassembly. The console has special Gamebit screws. Typical screw driver kits won't have a fitting tip and it needs to be bought separately. The console is easy to disassemble and it has only 2 types of screws inside. but it's important to keep track where each type is used. After disassembly I cleaned the parts with watery soap. Next I put them in my retrobrighting box to remove the yellowing with hydrogen peroxide and UV-lights. Tutorial to building the box: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU Tutorial to retrobrighting: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s After the yellowing was removed, I continued to inspect the board. Usually problems with SNES are due to the cartridge reader. There was some corrosion near one of the chips on the board, which led me to notice there were cold solder joints. I reflowed the solder on the joints and cleaned the contacts for the game cartridge reader and the console started working. If you have issues and cleaning the cartridge contacts won't fix it, you can also use schematics to try to figure out what the issue is. You can find the schematics from here: https://wiki.superfamicom.org/schematics-ports-and-pinouts#snes-schematic-491 Additionally I recreated the missing Nintendo service sticker based on original stickers I have on my other consoles, not that I needed to call the service number ever 😉 Thank you for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Gamebit screw driver: https://amzn.to/3dRaxe8 Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Micro soldering tip: https://amzn.to/3p7oKJl Soldering station: https://amzn.to/3cue55u Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #nintendo #gaming #asmr

Épisode 119 - Extremely Rusty 1940's Coca-Cola 6-pack Restoration

5 janvier 2022

I will restore this Coca-Cola 6 pack. It's very rusty and it's missing the handle It's likely made during WWII because, usually these are made of aluminum but during the war aluminum was used for planes etc. and materials for these were changed to steel. I decided to not use laser for rust removal this time, simply because I didn't want to miss opportunity to restore Coca-Cola item with Coke. I used sugar free version to avoind averything getting sticky. After 5 days in Coca-Cola lot of rust had fallen off and teh rest came off with metal brush easily., without any tretment it will take ages to get rust off with only a wire brush. After removing rust, I bent the metal to it's original shape from the areas it had some damage. Rust had also damaged teh metal and caused a lot of pittin and even holes. I used filler to get rid of most of those adn sanded evertything down. For the paint I used first a base coat. I usually use filler base coat which is a little thicker than regular and can hide small imperfections or can be sanded down like filler. On toip of that I used RAL 9001 colored paint. Once the paint was properly dried I painted the Coca-Cola logo red with a brush. Next I clear coated the carrier with 2K (2 component) clear coat. It's much more glossy and durable than regular spray paint and it will protect the layers of paint underneath. The carrier was also missing the handle. I searched some pictures what teh handles had looken like. I took a piece of beech wood and turned it into the correct shape on a lathe. The metal part of teh handle was made from 4mm aluminum rod. I made a custom jig to help me bend it to teh correct shape. After this I taped the wood part and painted the rod. like I hard done with the body. The wooden handle was finished with lacquer. I hope you enjoy the video as much as I enjoyed making it. Thanks for watching! The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Drilling Guide: https://amzn.to/3sYpItZ Spray gun: https://amzn.to/3FXZ6gj Coca-Cola: https://amzn.to/3G2xLtw Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 My main camera: https://amzn.to/3kklOqJ Main lens: https://amzn.to/397kkJX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #lighter #ASMR

Épisode 120 - Restoring Arcade Controller for My Nintendo SNES - Console Restoration

28 janvier 2022

The first 1,000 people to use this link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl.sh/oddtinkering01221 In this episode I restore a popular 3rd party arcade controller for the SNES. It's calles Super Advance and it was made by Asciiware. The all the buttons and switches are not working and the console has yellowed a little. I started the project with disassembly. Unlike Nintendo products this doesn't require any special screw drivers, jsut a normal phillips head will be enough and even all the screws are the same size. After the disassembly I quickly noticed the sliders on the controllers hacve small pieces of metal that had damaged the protective coating on the circuit board and even the traces on the board. I used a conductive silver paint to repoair the broken traces and a special clear coat to protect the board teh next 30 years or so. To remove the yellowing I used method cvalled retrobrighting. It uses hydrogen peroxide to remove the yellowing from the plastic. Here's my tutorial on the method: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s Here's my tutorial to building the retrobrighting box: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU Thank you for watching my video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Conductive silver paint: https://amzn.to/34esQYf Clear coat for circuit board: https://amzn.to/3u5ZuWY Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS UV LED strip: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #nintendo #gaming #asmr

Épisode 122 - I Restored This Junk PlayStation 2 That Won't Start - Retro Console Restoration

18 mars 2022

I will restore this PlayStation 2 which won't start. PS2 is the best selling gaming console ever made, only the GameBoy (all models included) has sold more units. Here's the T-shirt rest of my links are at the bottom of description: https://odd-tinkering-2.creator-spring.com/listing/new-gamestation-blueprints?product=387 When I tested the console I noticed it had the red power light on but when I tried to start the console it would only briefly flash green and nothing would happen. The red light indicated there's some power and often the flashing green light indicated ssomething wrong with the power board. After opening the console I quickly found several dead capacitors. They were easy to recognize since the top was bulged and there were clear signs of leaking. Luckily the leaked acid had not damaged the board further. I replced the capacitors with new ones. I also cleaned the boards from dust and with isopropyl alcohol.The original model sticker was in bad condition so I copied it in photoshop and printed a new one. In case you're courious, the building I show in the end is located in Finland and is known as "Raaden Hammas" it means the tooth of Raade after former CEO of the company that originally built it. Funnily located it's right next to local Microsoft office. And most importantly it was built way before Playstation 2 was released. Thanks for watching! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate link. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Soldering iron https://amzn.to/3h2LkNz Vacuum cleaner: https://amzn.to/3ilcAZm Black gloves: https://amzn.to/363OsrL --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #playstation

Épisode 123 - Restoring Cast Iron Pan Found from Dumpster

6 avril 2022

I found this cast iron skillet from a dumpster and decided to restore it. It's very rusty and it's missing a handle so I need to make a new handle. Funnily enough it was the same dumpster I found the previous cast iron pan too. I started by cleaning all the burn stuff that was loose of first. It will be much nicer to laser clean when I don't have to burn those off with the laser. Next Iaser cleaned the pan. More info about the devices you can find from: https://laser.w2m.fi/laser-cleaning/?lang=en Next I sterilized the pan with isopropyl alcohol. Laser cleaning should clean everything off but since the cast surface is porous and there might be residues of motor oil or some other unhealthy oils fro mthe dumpster I decided to do this anyways. I drilled a hole to make the handle removable. The pan is so heavy I didn't want to friction fit, especially since I will be heating and cooling it over and over again. Friction fitted handly would probably get loose really fast. I added a ciountersunk hole to make the screw sit flush with the cast iron for nicer look. Now the pan was ready to be seasoned. I used canola oil and did 5 coats. I wiped the pan with liberal amoubt of oil and then wiped off any excess oil. Nexi it was put into the oven for an hour to burn on each coat. I had my oven se to 230 degrees celcius. I took a piece of ash wood. It's actually "leftover" piece from my previous project where I made base for the air compressor. I lathed teh handle round first and then used a special technique to turn the other end of the handle oval. I off centered the other end of teh piece while turning. The other end stayed round. Oval handle is much more ergonomic, which is why hammers etc have oval handles too. The finished handle was treated with linseed oil and attached to teh pan with a screw. I hope you enjoy the video as much as I enjoyed making it. Thanks for watching! The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Chuck Norris' toothbrush: https://amzn.to/3x8zfAx Linseed oil: https://amzn.to/3DJwcjK Drill: https://amzn.to/3t1WXL8 Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Camping stove: https://amzn.to/3uh0OWO Stove pot support: https://amzn.to/3uh0OWO --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_s... --------------------------------------------------------------------- Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 124 - Space Invader Console Restoration with Broken Screen - Retro Console Restoration

2 mai 2022

In this episode I will restore this Invader console made by Gakken. It's not working and the screen is broken and it needs a full restoration. I started by finding out why the console wasn't working. I don't have schematics for teh circuit board so it's much harder to try to figure out what's wrong. I first tried to replace the capacitors as they're parts that will break when they get old and it's a common issue with older electronics. Next I looked for any broken older joints. I found one and after fixing it the screeen started to work. There was still some issues so I figured it there's likely other broken joints too, or some dirt causing the circuit to short. I cleaned the borad and reflowed the solder in all of the joints on the board. After this the game started working normally. The switch for the difficulty level was still stuck. I removed it fro mteh board and cleaned it with my ultrasonic cleaner in isopropyl alcohol. Ultrasonic cleaner build: https://youtu.be/2qOmP9x-9g8 Next I took a photo of the broken screen and recreated it in Photoshop. I printed the graphix fro a new screen on a plastic sheet and cut it into shape. Similarly I took photo of the sticker and used that and other pictures I was able to find from the internet to recreate the sticker and printed it on a silver sticker paper. I cleaned the screws and battery contact in the ultrasonic cleaner and replated them with nickel. Nickel plating tutorial: https://youtu.be/O3DCexCLoGQ Thanks for watching, I hopy you enjoyed the video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Soldering Iron:https://amzn.to/3qH2ogq Scroll saw: https://amzn.to/3vzrkeH 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Drill: https://amzn.to/3t1WXL8 Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #tech

Épisode 126 - Subscriber Sent Me This Junk Nintendo DS Lite for Restoration

13 juin 2022

Subscriber of mine asked me if I'd like to restore Nintendo DS Lite handheld received as part of a gaming console lot he bought. Naturally I said yes and he sent it to me. He was very kind to add some spare parts for me too so I can try to make some sort of FrankenNintendo. And just because some of you are probably curious the 3rd main board I didn't show much on the video had a power issue and there was lots of white glue on top of the chip responsible for powert management. The glue is hard to remove but likely that chip was somehow damaged, becasue everything else seemed fine. I might try to remove the glue and replace the chip some day. After diassembly I cleaned the shell parts with soap, but a lot of the rust stains didn't come off. Also some of the parts were yellowed so I used hydrogen peroxide to remove the yellowing. In this case it also dissolved the rust leaving the parts looking like brand new. Another method to remove rust stains would be with acid. Tutorial to retrobrighting: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s Tutorial to making my retrobrighting box: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU I cleaned the rusted main board with isopropyl alcohol to see how bad the damage was. I spotted a couple of parts that had come loose and probably dozens of solder joints would need to be resoldered. Additionally I spotted that the corrosion had spreaded to inside of the board. One of the spare boards I received seemed to work, except it had broken power switch and card reader, so I decided to use that. Luckily the original corroded board had both of those intact. I only had to give them a bit of cleaning and move them from the original board to the new one. Finally I tested the screen on another DS which I knew was working. I got it as part of a lot of consoles for about $3 each and it only needed a quick clean to start working. I added the screen to the working DS Lite and saw both of them weree damaged. So I removed teh touch pad from the screen and installed it to the new screen. The bottom screen also needed some insulation. This is because it's placed on top of the main board and if the isulation is not added the metal behind the screen will cause a short circuit and either break the device or blow the fuse. Thanks for watching, I hopy you enjoyed the video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Soldering Iron:https://amzn.to/3qH2ogq DS Lite bottom screen: https://amzn.to/3N0JKKR DS Lite top screen: https://amzn.to/3aZf4wc 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Electric screw driver: https://amzn.to/3HmRAgn Mini drill: https://amzn.to/3NMm3XO Prying tools: https://amzn.to/3HkFSmt Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS DS Lite screw set: https://amzn.to/3QgFA45 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #tech

Épisode 127 - Restoring Trench Art Lighter from WWI - Book Lighter Restoration

29 juin 2022

Head to https://squarespace.com/oddtinkering to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code ODDTINKERING In this video I'll restore a trech art lighter shaped like a book from World War I. The lighter was handmade by someone during the war. It was not designed to have the wick and cotton replaced because it was soldered shut. I desoldered the triangle pieces of copper to remove the "hinge" and then I desoldered teh bottom of teh fuel tank to remove the cotton and old wick. I cleaned most of the oxidation off with vinegar. Then the parts were sanded with multiple grits of sandpaper up to 2000 grits and polished with a buffing wheel. New wick and cotton were inserted and I made a new hinge to replace the old one. All the pieces were soldered back on using a heat gun. When using a heat gun it's important to make sure other solders on the part don't meltand all the parts don't fall off. The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos. Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Soldering station with heat gun: https://amzn.to/3AdEbGa Polishing kit: https://amzn.to/3NuyeY8 Replacement wicks: https://amzn.to/3yqaAb5 Zippo fluid: https://amzn.to/3I2wvbx Zippo flint: https://amzn.to/3AcpbYV Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 128 - Restoration & Upgrade of PlayStation with a Spider Nest Inside

23 juillet 2022

I will restore and upgrade this broken and yellowed PlayStation. The coinsole doesn't read discs which is very common and easily fixable issue with these old consoles. I also found something a spider nest from the inside. During the dissasembly I found the remains a of a spider and a spidernest. It's very common I find bugs inside these old devices, I'm, not sure why, maybe they're dark and warm places? I cleaned the parts with soap and then put them in my retrobrighting box. Here's my tutorial to the retrobrighting: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s and tutorial to build the box: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU Notice that the original tutorial doesn't need the heater but the lights are touching the box which warms up the solution. Both heat and UV-light seem to aid the process. Next I installed the upgrade. I got a device called PSIO that allows me to play games from SD cards. This device can onlu be installed to Playstations taht have the Parallel I/O port in the back, not all of them do. You can find the instructions for each board from https://ps-io.com/ and full details on how to set it up. All you need is to add files (the manufacturer provides on that page) to the SD card and put your games on the card. Note that some games may consist of multiple .bin files. Those need to be cobined into single .bin files e.g. with CDMage program. This is a failrly simple modifications and fits someone with a little experience, however, you need a soldering iron with quite small tip to be able to solder them. To fix the disc drive I opnly had to clean the lens. In some cases teh laser has gone old. You can try adjusting the screw I show to give it more life. It increases the voltage going to the laser and if it's adjusted to the highest voltage at the factory the laser would burn out faster. In this restoration I use similar potentiometer to fix the laser on another Playstation https://youtu.be/8hGGVW_mGEI The idea is the same with this one. If adjusting the laser doesn't work, you need to purchase a replacement part. Or you can just intall an SD card reader and never play games from discs, but I wanted that option too so I repaired it. Thanks for watching, I hopy you enjoyed the video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Soldering Iron:https://amzn.to/3qH2ogq PSIO: https://ps-io.com/store/ Surgical blade: https://amzn.to/3Jfjegx 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Prying tools: https://amzn.to/3HkFSmt Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #tech

Épisode 129 - Restoring Arcade Joystick for My Original PlayStation - Retro Console Restoration

30 juillet 2022

Head to https://squarespace.com/oddtinkering to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code ODDTINKERING I will restore this Arcade Joystick for my PlayStation that I restored and upgraded recently. The controller is quite yellow ans the joystick sometimes gets stuck. The controller was made by Asciiware in the 90's. And it has extra switches to simulate automatically pressing buttons. After disassembling the controller I cleaned the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol and oiled the joystick. To temove teh yellowing I used a retrobrighting method explained more in this video: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s Since creating that tutorial I made also this box to have better contol of the temperature and to allow me easily use any size container. More about the box on this video: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU Once I had removed the yellowingthere was still some marks left on the shell. I was able to remove those with a magic sponge. I also didn't want to use the hydrogen peroxide on the cord which had some yellowing too. I was able to remove that too with the sponge. The Playstation logo on the contoller was damaged so I repainted it on the shell. Thanks for watching, I hopy you enjoyed the video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/2P0AmMp Magic sponge: https://amzn.to/3Bo8qdY Drill: https://amzn.to/3zIuoXF Polishing paste: https://amzn.to/3vnD6Io 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Prying tools: https://amzn.to/3HkFSmt Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #tech

Épisode 130 - Restoring Very Rusty Japanese Kitchen Knife

30 août 2022

Head to https://squarespace.com/oddtinkering to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code ODDTINKERING I in this episode I will restore a Japanese kitchen knife with a lot of rust. Rust has eaten a lot of the steel away. Also the handle was not in good shape and the wood had split. I started by removing the handle. I used block of wood to hammer it off the knife. I removed most of the rust with a laser rus remover that was loaned to me by W2M laser: https://w2m.fi/en/ Next I made jig to help me grind the bevel of the knife to my wanted angle. I needed to remove metal that was left porous by the rust to get a nice even edge. Otherwise the end result would be like a very unven sawtooth knife. After grinding the blade I sanded it all the way to 2000 grits and polished it. For the new handle I used a piece of aluminum pipe which I bent into an oval shape and made a plug from birch to fill it. I cut the rough shape of the tang of the knife in it, but I left the hole a bit too tight on purpose. I did the final fitting by heating the tang with blowtorch and burning the hole to the correct size and shape. Next I took a piece of Finnish curly birch and drilled a hole for the tang. I glued the handle pieces together and sanded the wood down to teh shape of the aluminum pipe. The aluminum was then polished. The blade fit the handle firmly so I didn't add any glue. Finally I sharpened the knife with a sharpening stone. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Threading tool set: https://amzn.to/3TsseDy Polishing kit: https://amzn.to/3NuyeY8 Sharpening stone: https://amzn.to/3KwBZfL Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Épisode 131 - 1950's Big Beam Flashlight Restoration

16 septembre 2022

Thanks to EcoFlow for sponsoring this video! Visit EcoFlow’s site at https://us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-2-portable-power-station?aff=347 to check out Delta 2! EcoFlow Website : https://us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-2-portable-power-station?aff=347 EcoFlow Amazon: https://amzn.to/3QXXWXL Please use the 9E88NJGJ coupon code for 5% discount on your DELTA II(2) until October 16th on both platforms. You will also get a free waterproof bag if you order before 22nd September. In this video I restore a 1950's Big Beam flashlight. The Flashlight is rusty and the paint is partially gone. Thgere are also some dents. I started by disassemblign the flashlight. I needed to take off the rivets to be able to get a good paint job. After diassembly I used electrolysi to remove the rust and paint. Dents were hammered flat, and any repaining defects on the surface were filled with bondo. The body was painted with 2K primer and then with red 2K paint. I also made custom stickers with the Big Beam logo to finish the look. I created the image in photoshop based on some images I found of another lamp. The handle and lamp part were polished and nickel plated. My nickel coating tutorial: https://youtu.be/O3DCexCLoGQ To reassemble the flashlight I needed to make some new rivets on my new lathe. I don't really have all the tool for it yet so it was easiest and fastest to do the final shaping and polishing with a drill. The lathe will be very useful for making thing like this, because it's always hard to find a specific kind of screw or rivet and if I do find one it might take 2 weeks to ship it to me. I also couldn't fit a hammet inside the case to hammer the rivets so I made a simple tool to help me do that. The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos. Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Mini lathe: https://amzn.to/3xxtqMG Induction heater: https://amzn.to/3BfkQTK Polishing kit: https://amzn.to/3NuyeY8 Soldering station: https://amzn.to/3AdEbGa Hand drill:https://amzn.to/3Lki58a Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #EcoFlow #PortableGenerator #PortablePowerStation #bestportablepowerstation #SolarPanel

Épisode 135 - I Restored This $5 Junk Nintendo Wii - Console Restoration & Repair

31 décembre 2022

I bought this Nintendo Wii as part of a bigger lot 10 Wii's for $50 to restore and repair them. It's however not working. It turns on but nothing shows up on the screen and the disc drive makes a horrible noise. First I disassembled the console. I found the Wii had taken some sort of a hit and the leg of the disc drive had broken. I also found the WiFi module had become loose and was causing the issue with no signal. Wii need both WiFi and Bluetooth module connected to start properly. After connecting the module I was able to test the console properly. The port for the sensor bar had some dirt that blocked good connection causing the sensor bar not to work. I cleaned the port to fix that. To fix the noise of the disc drive I had to bent some of the metal parts on the drive. When the console gets old the parts tend to bend due to use and they start to get make such noises due to vibrations from the disc spinning. Some of the plastic parts of the console were a bit yellowed. I removed the yellowing with a method called retrobrighting. Here's my tutorial for that: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s And tutorial to build the box: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoyed the video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/3WB3YjP Prying tools: https://amzn.to/3HkFSmt Surgical blade: https://amzn.to/3Jfjegx UV light: https://amzn.to/3CdWwmF 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/3Z3KBSb --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #tech

Épisode 136 - Restoring Broken Nintendo Wii Controllers - Console Restoration

25 janvier 2023

I bought this pair of broken Nintendo Wii controllers to repair them. The Wii remote doesn't turn on and the button on the nunchuck controller are not working. Upon closer examination it turn out the Wiimote has corrosion and the battery contact has become loose. I assume old batteries were left in the controller and they leaked. The acid then caused the corrosion. The battery contact was re-plated with nickel and soldered back on. Nickel plating tutorial: https://youtu.be/O3DCexCLoGQ The nunchuck was much easier to fix. The rubber pad under the buttons had only moved slightly to a bad position which caused the buttons to not work. The shells of the controllers were also a bit yellowed so I put them in my retrobrighting box to remove the yellowing. Retrobrigting box build: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU My retrobrighting tutorial: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set (not exact same but similar): https://amzn.to/3WB3YjP Triwing screwdriver: https://amzn.to/3XOI2lC Adjustable power supplly: https://amzn.to/3JjwEKt Prying tools: https://amzn.to/3HkFSmt Soldering station: https://amzn.to/3j2Rdjk Nickel anode: https://amzn.to/3j66GPM UV light: https://amzn.to/3CdWwmF 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/3Z3KBSb --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #gaming #asmr #tech

Épisode 137 - Restoration of 120 Year Old Fire Extinguisher with Testing

4 mars 2023

I restore this fire extinguisher from 1900 and test it. The fire extinguisher has lots of damage, it's oxidized, the bottle on the inside is broken, the hose is unusable and there are some dents. I've wanted to have one of these for a long time because the mechanism they use is so interesting. Also they look really nice. These type of extinquishers are called soda acid extinquishers. They use water that has soda in it and a small bottle of acid. When the extiguisher is flipped upside down, the soda and acid mix generating CO2 that will cause pressure to build in the extinguisher and that forces the water out. The hose and the lid were jammed pretty tightly because of years of oxidation. I used some oil to loosen them and on the lid I also had to use heat and secure the body of the extinquisher to my wise to I can apply enough force to open it. the extinquisher was quite unpractical shape for holding it in place during the operation so I used some straps and rubber mats to keep it in place. Next I removed most of the oxidation with salt and lemon. I figured that would be relatively gentle way of cleaning it so I have less work to do when I need to polish it. Next I removed paint from the label with paint remover. I proceeded to hammer the dents to fix them. It's good to remember that after repairing the dents the chamber might not hold all the pressure it used to anymore (that also applies to a dented chamber). The bottle holder on the lid was damaged. I assume years of corrosion from the acid in the bottle broke it and the bottle had broken too. Only lead cap was left. I decided to find similar sized old looking bottle for which I recreated the bottle holder. I made a simple wire bending tool and bent 4mm brass wire to create the bottle holder. I also made a new gasket for the top. Next I started working on the hose. I thought it looked pretty cool and since it was unusable and I'd have to destroy a lot of it just to get the original nozzle, I decided to make my own with a lathe from brass. I might frame the old hose and put it on my wall next to the extinguisher. The nozzle was then connected to a new hose that's for high pressure. After all the extinquisher is rated for 350 lb and some of these similar extinquishers have ratings for up to 500 lb. So also the hose should be able to take high pressure. Finally polished the extinquisher with metal polish. I also used a paint pen to paint the labels. That was a little messy but looked really good after I cleaned it up. The following links are affiliate links. By clicking them you are directed to a amazon (or other) product page. If you purchase that or any other product I will get a small fee but you will not pay any extra. This is an easy way to support this channel and allow me to keep making these videos. Thank you for watching and reading! --------------------------------------------------------------------- Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering T-Shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ Some of my tools: Mini lathe: https://amzn.to/3xxtqMG Drill press: https://amzn.to/3KYSHHa Black gloves: https://amzn.to/2YY8a09 Metal polish compound: https://amzn.to/3Jfcb8Q --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #antique #asmr

Épisode 138 - Restoring 1977 R2-D2 Radio Controlled Robot - Star Wars Toy Restoration

14 mai 2023

Restoration of a R2-D2 rc toy from 1977. I will restore and repair this droid to the shape it was long time ago in a galaxy far far away. The toy has some cosmetic issues, teh dome has lost it's shine and plastic has yeellowed, but also some technical issues. It's only making the sounds, not moving and the controller is not working perfectly. I started by fixing the controller. It was an easy fix since the contacts just needed to be cleaned. After I got the controller working the toy itself was still only making sounds and not moving. This was resolved by oiling the motors and turnign them. In time all sorts of dirt and dust and rust collect in the motors and those prevent it from turning. The motors are not strng so even a little dirt can cause issues. I fixed the yellowing plastic with process called retrobrigting that uses a chemical proicess to remove the yellowing. Here's my tutorial about it: https://youtu.be/jdWRsjnVD3s and my tutrial on makign the retrobrighting box: https://youtu.be/JX-RJM8MZpU To fix the dome I needed to metal plate the plastic with real metal. The reason for this is that there are no good mirror chrome paints. There are however systems that look like a paint gun and you spray on liquids that make real metal deposit on the surface. Those systems are very expensive and I wanted to learn how to electroplate metal. I used a conductive paint to coat the plastic, then I copper plated a thicker surface that can take a bit of sanding and sanded and polished the surface. Finally I plated the copper with palladium. Here's the video of the power source: https://youtu.be/crdUNgA7KJ0 Finally I printed out some new stickers and cleaned rusty parts with vinegar in my ultrasonic cleaner. If you want to make your own, here's how I made mine: https://youtu.be/2qOmP9x-9g8 Thanks for watching, I hopy you enjoyed the video! The bellow links to amazon are affiliate links. I get a small fee of anything you buy after clicking them, but you pay no more than without clicking. This is a great way to support my channel. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/odd.tinkering/ T-Shirts: teespring.com/stores/odd-tinkering-2 Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/oddtinkering SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT: Screw driver set: https://amzn.to/3WB3YjP Copper paint: https://amzn.to/44XJBSt 3D Printer: https://shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2036890&u=2869871&m=116595&urllink=&afftrack= Soldering Iron:https://amzn.to/3qH2ogq Mini sander: https://amzn.to/3nSDbn7 Electric screw driver: https://amzn.to/3HmRAgn Prying tools: https://amzn.to/3HkFSmt Isopropyl alcohol: https://amzn.to/42vUdX0 Hydrogen peroxide: https://amzn.to/3O5qOyF 99.9% isopropyl alcohol (IPA): https://amzn.to/34Po8dX --------------------------------------------------------------------- SUBSCRIBE ▶▶▶ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCf_suVrG2dA5BTjJhNLwthQ?sub_confirmation=1 --------------------------------------------------------------------- #restoration #repair #starwars #asmr #tech

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